Scrambling down the side of the mountain, I felt as if I was movie god Tom Cruise starring in a scene from his latest action thriller.
Then, with just a rope holding me in place, I managed to carefully reach out and touch every letter of what is probably the most famous sign in the world.
One of Los Angeles’ most distinguishing attractions, the Hollywood Sign, stands proudly on Mount Lee in the Hollywood Hills.
As it reaches its 100th-anniversary milestone in December this year, it felt all the more awesome to be given special permission by the Hollywood Chamber of Commerce to access it close up, an experience strictly off-limits to the public.
Overlooking the movie industry it has come to symbolise, tourism bosses are, however, fully aware of its star power and there are plans by the Hollywood Sign Trust to spearhead the building of a visitors’ centre, offering fans a similar close-up experience.
Originally reading “Hollywoodland”, the sign was first erected as a billboard for an upscale real estate development above the Hollywood district and was only intended to stay for 18 months.
That neighbourhood was Beachwood Canyon – home of the Beachwood Cafe name-checked by Harry Styles in his 2019 song Falling – and it serves the best English breakfast tea in LA.
Tinseltown – the land of bright lights, success and excess – has it all going on, which makes it a top-of-the-bucket list travel destination.
As a film fan, I loved the idea of immersing myself in Hollywood glamour and visiting all the famous film sets. With the Oscars celebrating its 95th birthday in March, it was the perfect opportunity to explore the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures.
The fascinating exhibition Regeneration: Black Cinema 1898-1971, explores the rich history of Black participation in American cinema from its beginnings to just beyond the civil rights movement.
On entry, you’re greeted by two versions of a clip from a silent film (released in 1898) which shows performers Saint Suttle and Gertie Brown in what is believed to be the earliest inclusion of affection shown by Black actors on screens.
Other exhibitions include a spotlight on movies Boyz N The Hood and Casablanca, as well as costumes and props from films, such as Meryl Streep’s dungarees from Mamma Mia!
If you’ve ever dreamed about accepting an Oscar, this is the place to do it.
At The Oscars Experience, you will be transported, by simulation, to the Dolby Theatre on Oscar night, where you will hear your name being called to receive your award, all captured on video (adults £20, under 18s free. The Oscars Experience, £11, academymuseum.org).
You can also take the Hollywood Past and Present tour, which includes locations associated with the Academy Awards, from the first-ever Oscars held in the Blossom Ballroom of the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel to the headquarters of the Academy of Motion Pictures and Sciences.
A tour of Universal Studios Hollywood certainly puts you in the middle of the drama. Here you’ll get to see how Jaws was filmed with a robotic shark in a tank of water, and check out the cars from Jurassic World.
Most of the tour is outside, so you witness film sets in all their glory before an immersive VR segment sees you suddenly thrown into the jungle with King Kong where you have to race to escape him.
But hold on to your seats as you take on the Fast & Furious supercharged finale, travelling at 120mph with the cast of the film through the world of Los Angeles crime (adults from £85, children from £80, under threes free, universalstudioshollywood.com).
You can also see how the magic happens at the Warner Brothers Studio Tour, where you’ll visit the fountain from Friends and even sit on the famous sofa. Grab one of the umbrellas and strike a pose for a selfie.
The two-hour tour also takes in the houses from Pretty Little Liars and A Star Is Born.
Warner Brothers is known for the Wizarding World of Harry Potter and fans can go on the sets, including the Great Hall, Ollivanders wand shop and the potions-making class (adults £55, children £45, minimum age five, wbstudiotour.com).
For more movie greatness, head to the Walk of Fame, where 2,500 terrazzo and brass stars are embedded along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard.
Spot tributes to legends such as John Lennon, Marilyn Monroe and Elvis Presley.
One block away is Grandmaster Recorders – a former recording studio now transformed into a swanky restaurant and bar. Channel your inner rock star, knowing the likes of David Bowie, Kanye West, Stevie Wonder and the Red Hot Chili Peppers recorded some of their biggest hits here.
Just a short walk away is The tommie Hollywood, where I stayed. Its secluded rooftop bar and pool with vibes of Venice Beach feels miles away from the busy streets below.
Rooms have views of the famous sign and Hollywood Hills.
There’s even a robot, keeping guests entertained as the bar transforms into a live venue, with the likes of British rockers The Struts often taking to the stage.
Its restaurant Ka’teen offers a fresh take on the delights of the Yucatan Peninsula with zinging starters and moreish mains.
A great way to see more highlights is on a Hikes And Bikes Hollywood tour.
It takes in the famous Hollywood Forever Cemetery, the resting place of hundreds of Hollywood legends, including Judy Garland, Mickey Rooney and Johnny and Dee Dee Ramone (standard bikes £55, e-bikes £75, bikesandhikesla.com).
Or for something completely different, the Griffith Observatory is Southern California’s gateway to the cosmos, where visitors can explore the exhibits and peer through telescopes – and admission is free.
The Signs of Life show is a fascinating insight into what it took to put life in the universe. (adults £8, children £5 griffithobservatory.org).
Downtown Los Angeles has been totally transformed since the dark days of the 700-room Cecil Hotel, just off Skid Row, which was plagued with death, drugs and crime.
The area now offers big-city excitement with art, shopping, major league sports, markets and pop-ups. There’s also Grand Park, an urban oasis with views stretching from the Music Centre, including Walt Disney Concert Hall, to City Hall.
The Conrad Los Angeles is a slice of heaven Downtown with huge rooms, giant beds and caviar for breakfast.
The fresh-baked cookies on arrival were a lovely touch. With a rooftop bar and a gorgeous spa, it’s no wonder celebs stay here to glam up before the Grammys.
If you want a truly memorable last night in LA, book a table at 71 Above in Downtown.
At a height of 1,000ft, the modern American menu is served with panoramic views from Malibu to Laguna Hills.
Or simply grab a seat at the west-facing bar, order one of the signature cocktails named after LA districts, and watch the sunset over the Pacific.
GET THERE
British Airways flies from Heathrow to Los Angeles from £389 return. ba.com
BOOK IT
Rooms at the Conrad Los Angeles hotel start at around from £400 a night room-only. hilton.com
- Rooms at the tommie Hollywood hotel start from around £160 a night room-only. hyatt.com
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