Fast fashion shows the extremity of our mass consumer culture.
To keep up with the latest industry-pedalled product, production goes into overdrive to create garments and accessories as cheaply as possible, which will then, eventually, wind up in landfill.
Consumers have an insatiable urge to find the next thing to update their wardrobe, driving over-consumption and wreaking havoc on our planet’s dwindling resources. Trends move quickly, especially with our ever-shortening attention span exacerbated by social media apps like TikTok.
To keep up with the demand that has been increasing since the end of the Second World War, handcraftsmanship has been superseded by mass production. The result is a sad loss of traditional techniques and quality. There’s also the increased likelihood that you will show up to work wearing the same thing as the person next to you.
In protest, some brands still retain the same artisanal production processes, which is nowhere more apparent than in the shoe industry. Smaller-scale labels put more of an emphasis on pride of work and the cobbler craft, offering enduring staples that are more in line with the move towards sustainable shopping practices.
The market for handmade shoes is still very much there and the results speak for themselves. With the use of high-quality materials and attention to detail, the boots, dress shoes, loafers and more are built to stand the test of time – and that is all without mentioning the environmental implications.
Slower and non-industrial methods mean fewer resources are used in their creation – importantly, less waste and energy - benefitting the planet while bringing unique artisanal creations that will be stalwarts in your smart-to-casual outfit rotation for years to come.
Italy and France have excellent craftsmanship, especially with the use of leather in the former, there are also brands to know right here in the UK. Homegrown labels are typically based in Northampton, a town inextricably linked to shoemaking since the 12th century. Think legendary brands like Church’s, Barker and Joseph Cheaney & Sons – although in this piece, we are showcasing brands who still provide handmade detailing as far and wide as Australia.
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Dear Frances
Encapsulating the quality that Italian craftsmanship is known for, the shoe brand Dear Frances is defined by understated and timeless elegance and hard-wearing constructions. The label has been worn by the likes of Kendall Jenner, Florence Pugh and Gemma Chan and has become known in particular for its bellwether Balla mesh flats most of all.
The range extends from flats and loafers, to heels and boots as well as handbags. The eco-conscious collection is cut from butter-soft calf leather or suede with hand-sewn seams. The sleek Cade boot pictured has caught our attention with its handcrafted pebble grain leather fabric and utilitarian aesthetic.
Buy now, Farfetch
Duke + Dexter
Duke + Dexter is almost synonymous with penny loafers in which the directional label takes a unique approach to their design. The London-born label calls on inspiration as far and wide as Los Angeles, the Scottish Highlands, the Mediterranean or the Wild West to inspire its intricate prints that include snakes, cherries and kisses.
The brand pays close attention to every single detail in the construction of its shoes and that is reflected in the quality. You can even customise the design, which is brought to life and hand-painted by the brand’s in-house team of artists.
Buy now, Duke + Dexter
R.M. Williams
R.M. Williams’ origin dates as far back as 1932, the year in which the eponymous cobbler created his very first pair of men’s boots. Since these humble beginnings, the Australian label has expanded into womenswear with shoes and clothing but has retained the same handcraftsmanship that has come to define it.
The brand is best known for its boots still today, in which it uses one piece of leather to ensure their durability - they need to withstand the Aussie outback, after all.
Buy now, R.M. Williams
Joseph Cheaney & Sons
Each shoe in Joseph Cheaney & Sons’ collection is a testament to the brand’s adoration of heritage and British manufacturing. These are shoes built to last and that’s why the label has endured since its establishment in 1886.
While changing hands, and now owned by Jonathan and William Church who come from five generations of shoe-makers, the brand has never faulted in its mission to produce the finest footwear out of its Northampton HQ. The boots are what the brand is known for and have classic silhouettes like the Chelsea, Derby, military and hikers.
Buy now, Joseph Cheaney & Sons
Barker
Shoemakers since 1880, Barker has upheld the British traditions of shoemaking to this day - namely the slow natural drying process and polishing. Based out of Northamptonshire, the studio produces around 200,000 pairs of shoes each year, all of which have been hand lasted sewn by bespoke shoemakers as labours of love.
Across both women’s and men’s footwear, you will find boots, brogues and contemporary styles that show the brand’s commitment to moving with the times. Yes, there are the traditional silhouettes but look also to the pared-back trainers and brightly hued loafers.
Buy now, Barker
Church's
A British institution, Church's was bestowed with the coveted Queen's Award to Industry by Elizabeth II. The label was founded back in 1873 but has a storied history and one that includes an acquisition from luxury Italian fashion house Prada back in 1999 in a reported US$170 million deal - a far cry from its humble beginnings in Northampton.
The luxury house was no doubt drawn to label on account of its traditional British manufacturing techniques and its marker of quality that defines each and every shoe that it produces. This is footwear designed for the well-dressed discerning gent looking for a style for all occasions.
Buy now, Selfridges
Berluti
Luxury lovers will be well-acquainted with Berluti, a high-end French fashion label whose bespoke creations have caught the eye over the years of The Duke of Windsor, Andy Warhol and Elisabeth Arden to name but a few.
The French leather specialist was unveiled in 1895 by the Italian shoemaker Alessandro Berluti and is now part of the LVMH group. The four-figure price tags get you intricately crafted shoes that transcend the notion of trend and their Italian leather constructions only get better with time.
Buy now, Mr Porter
Myrqvist
In 2016, the designers at Myrqvist set out to create quality footwear in a timeless design, one that could withstand the test of time and the test of trends. Luckily, they succeeded, and their premium footwear – with its Scandinavian influences – is one of our favourite sneaker brands today. The brand was even named as the fastest-growing footwear brand in Sweden in 2020, and we’ll take our style cues from the stylish Swedes any day.
Buy now, Myrqvist
