Although they may sound like a futuristic new skincare ingredient, growth factors – also called epidermal growth factors or EGFs – have been around since the 1950s and won the scientists behind the discovery a Nobel Prize for their research three decades later.
But it’s only in the last few years that, following studies on how they might benefit the complexion, growth factors have been infused into skincare.
Essentially proteins found naturally in skin but that diminish with age, growth factors signal the peptides that help stimulate our cells to regenerate and refresh the dermis, working deep down to tackle lines, wrinkles and age spots by boosting collagen and elastin production. This cellular repair and renewal results in a more luminous, youthful complexion.
“EGFs are a signalling protein that plays a vital role in skin health, vitality and appearance,” explains Dr Sigrun Dögg Guðjónsdóttir, Chief Research & Development Officer at BIOEFFECT, who have pioneered the use of growth factors in skincare using the barley plant. “They are most commonly found in the dermis, stimulating fibroblasts and triggering cells responsible for collagen and elastin production, contributing to skin firmness and density. They can also help regulate moisture levels by boosting production of hyaluronic acid, enhancing moisture retention and helping prevent dehydration. From birth until adulthood, our bodies naturally produce these skin-replenishing proteins. However, this starts to decrease when we reach maturity and as a result, cell turnover and repair slows, eventually affecting our appearance when skin starts to sag and fine lines and wrinkles appear.”
Alongside collagen and elastin, growth factors are what keep skin looking youthful. While retinols are the gold standard for treating signs of ageing, topically-applied EGFs are fast becoming a worthy alternative, offering similar benefits but without the potential for irritation. In creams and serums, growth factors are large proteins derived from human cells or plant cells, with sources as diverse as barley, yeast, bacteria and - more controversially - recreated synthetically from circumcised skin. They have the same amino acid sequence and shape as our own natural EGFs, allowing skin to easily recognise them and put them to work.
“We start to age earlier than we think,” says Dr Sigrun. “In our 20s, the natural production of growth factors is already starting to decrease and we can observe the first signs of skin ageing. By topically applying EGF products, you can help rejuvenate the skin and retain its ability to restore itself for longer. Therefore, these products can be used to prevent, postpone or reduce the signs of ageing as well as repair or maintain more mature skin.”
Read on for our pick of the best growth factor-infused skincare whether prevention or treatment is your aim.
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BioEffect EGF Power Serum
A new addition to BioEffect’s award-winning EGF range, this serum is supercharged to work harder on more mature complexions. Growth proteins are extracted from sustainable barley seed grown in Iceland’s rich volcanic soil and formulas use the country’s geothermal-filtered water to be exceptionally clean and soft on skin - it’s so pure you can even use it to smooth your eyelids.
The two proteins utilised counteract already visible lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, plus a lack of skin density that can make the face sag and look deflated, while also boosting firmness. An amino acid compound, NAG, helps improve the skin barrier as it reduces water loss, while hyaluronic acid holds more moisture in, giving an added bouncy, plumping effect. The serum spreads easily and takes a few minutes to absorb so less is definitely more: as little as two drops will cover face and neck. A hardworking, multitasking must-have.
Buy now £165.00, Cult Beauty
The Inkey List 15% Vitamin C + EGF Serum
This lightweight, golden serum teams together powerful epidermal growth factors with a hefty dose of vitamin C to boost skin tone and texture, while improving firmness and smoothness. One pump, applied day and night, is ample to help give skin extra bounce as it tackles fine lines, while the vit C offers fantastic antioxidant protection against complexion-damaging, dulling environmental pollution and gives an instant hit of luminosity. It’s a brilliant make-up base too. Ideal for layering under moisturiser or using alone, the texture and the price make this the perfect entry product for trying out EGFs for the first time, no matter what your age or skin type.
Buy now £15.99, Cult Beauty
Perricone MD High Potency Growth Factor Firming & Lifting Eye Serum
Dedicated to the delicate eye area when it starts to show sagging, puffiness and crow’s feet, this formula is packed with a trio of potent anti-ageing ingredients. Perricone MD’s unique polyamine growth factor technology was developed to create a firming and lifting effect (it’s used in their award-winning face serum too), infusing skin with moisture as it encourages better elasticity.
DMAE, a compound made naturally in the body, tackles sagging by supporting the skin’s structure and adding a plumping effect. And niacinamide strengthens the moisture barrier to help soften lines as it treats dark circles. The rich gel consistency absorbs fast and won’t leave behind any stickiness as it delivers impressive benefits, most noticeably smoothing, lifting and brightening.
Buy now £61.00, John Lewis
StriVectin Peptide Plump Line-Filling Bounce Serum
This velvety gel-serum is packed with a unique Alpha-3 peptide, designed using AI to interact best with the cell receptors that uptick the production of our own collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. The peptide, a smaller fragment of larger growth proteins, can precisely target these three building blocks essential to the volume, shape and strength of the skin that help keep it smooth, supple and firm. With added moisture-boosting red algae and protective, illuminating tumeric root extract, its particularly good at improving lines on the forehead a ramping up glow. Used day and night under moisturiser, it also has a subtle line and pore-blurring effect as well as a delicate, uplifting rose scent.
Buy now £69.00, StriVectin
RéVive Moisturizing Renewal Cream
A potent overnight treatment aimed at resurfacing skin texture and tackling imperfections from blemishes to fine lines, RéVive are another pioneer when it comes to infusing epidermal growth factors into skincare, with studies as far back as 1994.
This now-iconic cream was the brand’s first and its bio-renewal protein is skin-identical, allowing it to easily and gently exfoliate, smooth and nourish the face in combination with added glycolic acid. The bouncy, fast-absorbing texture makes skin feel soft and hydrated immediately, while the next morning the complexion looks fresher and more radiant too. Normal to oily skin types aiming to counteract multiple signs of ageing will love this nightly treat.
Buy now £165.00, Space NK
Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream
Don’t let the first touch fool you: it may feel a little oily as you smooth it on, but this gel-balm melts deliciously into the skin in seconds to create a satiny, comforting barrier that nourishes while it works anti-ageing magic. An intensive concentration of growth factors are teamed with peptides that signal cell renewal, strengthening amino acids and firming soybean folic acid ferment extract to create a multi-pronged approach to boosting and maintaining toned, moisturised and smoother skin. If your complexion has signs of sun damage, those patches of pigmentation as well as lines and wrinkles will look more faded too.
Buy now £59.00, Drunk Elephant
Skin Research EGF Serum Epidermal Growth Factor
Aimed at complexions that are particularly dry, this serum is packed with extra moisturising ingredients including super-hydrator hyaluronic acid and quenching aloe vera. They give an added soothing element to ease irritation and inflammation in dehydrated or sensitive skin, as well as being said to help with scarring. Another added ingredient, croton lechleri resin extract - popularly known as Dragon’s Blood - is also renowned for its healing and regenerative properties, giving a boost to the benefits of the growth factors for a smoother, fresher and glowing complexion.
Buy now £19.90, Sephora
Calecim Professional Multi-Action Cream
A favourite with plastic surgeons and cosmetic dermatologists for patients looking to tackle advanced signs of ageing or to help heal after clinical treatments such as laser, this formula might feel rich but is a light cream-emulsion that spreads and absorbs easily.
It floods the top layers with epidermal growth factors derived from ethically-sourced cord lining stem cells that tell your own cells to activate and produce more rejuvenating and firming proteins, smoothing out deep lines and folds, lifting lax skin and improving fullness and dullness. Once a little is massaged in, the complexion feels as though it has a featherlight, protective shield and velvet-matte finish, so it’s ideal for morning make-up application.
Buy now £75.00, Dermoi
Katherine Daniels Treatment Boost for Rosacea & Sensitive Skin
A blend of anti-ageing powerhouse ingredients centred around the epidermal growth factor melatonin, this serum glides on and sinks in quickly to take down redness as it strengthens delicate skin. The melatonin helps defend against the internal and external aggressors that contribute to rosacea and irritation as well as boosting collagen production, while stem cells from cotton plants assist in repairing and soothing redness too. Azelaic acid, another anti-inflammatory hero, plus red algae extract which floods the skin with oxygen to boost microcirculation, bolster the calming qualities. Combined, this is a winner for clearer, plumper sensitive skin.
Buy now £93.00, Katherine Daniels
Beautyceutic EGF
Created by a renowned formulator with decades of experience making skincare for other brands, the Beautyceutic line-up allows you to blend bespoke products to suit your own specific needs. This EGF booster is blended to have an intense plumping and line-softening effect in just one drop added to your choice from their ‘fundamental’ basics, such as cleaner, serum or oil.
As well as improving elasticity, barrier function and firmness, it helps rebalance uneven skin tone and encourage the skin to be thicker for better volume if sagging is an issue. The increased fibroblast and collagen production stimulated by this thick but watery-light serum means deeper wrinkles are tackled too, while fans also note a boost in brightness.
Buy now £190.00, Beautyceutic
Verdict
An OG of growth factor skincare and pioneers in using a plant extract to do so, BioEffect still remains leader of the pack after more than a decade. The bio-technology behind EFG Power Serum is unrivalled, as are the results, including firmer, smoother, more even toned and plumper skin once the visible signs of ageing have kicked in and the complexion needs an effective, lasting treatment.
The bottle may be small for the price, but the tiny amount needed to cover from face to chest (it smoothes out crêpey, first-thing-in-the-morning creases there too), teamed with the fact that it’s so hydrating you could possibly forgo buying moisturiser, means this serum is great value for the brilliant anti-ageing benefits gained.
