With archaeological evidence of viticulture dating back to 6,000 BC, Georgia is often regarded as the birthplace of wine. Yet in the UK, we've only just developed a thirst for the country's lip-smackingly delicious bottles.
And it’s about time.
Forget, at least for the moment, France, Italy and Spain: no other country can claim a rich wine-making heritage that dates so far back in history.
Straddling both eastern Europe and western Asia on the Black Sea, Georgia is a small country of just under four million people with Russia to the north, Turkey and Armenia to the south and Azerbaijan to the east.
But don’t be fooled by its relatively diminutive size: Georgia still boasts 530 indigenous grape varieties of which just under 50 are used for wine production around the world. The most famous include the likes of Aladasturi, Aleksandrouli, Chkhaveri, Saperavi, Shavkapito, Takveri and Ojaleshi for red wine; and Chinuri, Kisi, Rkatsiteli, Tsitska, Tsolikouri and Mtsvane for white.
With the bulk hailing from the Kakheti region in the east, where around 80 varieties are grown using natural methods, Georgian wine is distinguished by its ancient technique of fermentation in a clay pot (qvevri) rather than oak barrels or steel tanks like elsewhere. Both the material and shape of the pot help to develop the country’s famously full-bodied flavour, while using the whole grape – including stalks and skins – means Georgian winemaking has always been way ahead of the curve in terms of low-intervention methods to create natural wine.
Sue Daniels, an expert in-house winemaker at M&S for over 40 years, explains: “As a winemaker, it's been so rewarding to see customers fall in love with the styles from this ancient winemaking region.
We've seen a real growing interest in Georgian wines since we added the Saperavi and Mtsvane to our popular Found range last summer, alongside our orange wine by Tbilvino, which has been in the range for a number of years. I'm delighted that we now proudly offer the most Georgian wines of anywhere on the high street, making M&S the go-to destination for those keen to try the unique styles that come from this country.”
Here, we crack open more than our fair share of Georgian wine to bring you the latest and greatest bottles to buy from this rich region. Get in there quick – it’s only a matter of time before the hipsters come calling.
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Tbilvino ‘Qvevris’ Rkatsiteli 2020/21
Hailing from a winery that has spent the best part of 60 years showcasing its country’s grapes, this Rkatsiteli is a beautiful amber in colour with a rounded texture, aromatic notes of apricot and pear, and a full, charismatic body. The perfect partner for rich lamb dishes.
Buy now £13.99, Majestic
Orovela Saperavi
You’ll need to be quick to snap up this limited-edition, fruit-forward Saperavi. It’s deliciously rich with intense flavours of blackberry and cherry together with a long and smoky finish. Team with veal Milanese for a mid-week winner.
Buy now £17.49, Waitrose
M&S Found Saperavi
Made from grapes grown in the vineyards in Kakheti, this Saperavi – Georgia’s signature variety – is deep crimson in colour with ripe cherries and blackberries on the palate together with a touch of vanilla. A superbly priced bottle from the Found range at M&S.
Buy now £10.50, Ocado
M&S Found Mtsvane
Green-hued with notes of citrus, peach, apple blossom and sage, this Mtsvane – the famed white grape from Georgia – is made from a single vineyard on the banks of the river Alazani. According to its maker, hand-picking its grapes at sunrise retains their zesty flavours.
Buy now £10.50, M&S
Dugladze AOC Mukuzani, Saperavi
With decadent black fruit and berry aromas teamed with rich vanilla and black pepper notes, this Saperavi is a dry and powerful red characterised by its ridiculously dark cherry colour.
Buy now £17.99, Amazon
Solomnishvili #22, Kakheti, Saperavi, 2018
Behold: a single-varietal Saperavi from the Kakheti region by one of Georgia’s best winemakers. What’s not to love? Dubbed the ‘Malbec of the Caucasus’ – the transcontinental region between the Black and Caspian Seas – this wine is hearty, rustic and full-flavoured.
Buy now £25.00, Gusto Wines
Schuchmann Saperavi, Kakheti, 2021
A modern-style red from Kakheti, this Saperavi is fruity and vibrant, its depth of flavour credited to being fermented and aged in qvevri. Expect dry oak spice and stewed plums on the palate that make it an excellent partner for red meat or creamy pasta.
Buy now £16.00, Salusbury Winestore
Papari Valley3 Terraces Certified Organic Qveri Rkatsiteli 2019/2021
Seriously drinkable, this Rkatsiteli is fruity but well-rounded with notes of green apple and toffee, while being noticeably softer and juicer than some of its counterparts. The ‘3 terraces’ in its name refers to the unique terraced system employed by its winemaker: the first for fermentation; the second for ageing; and the third for further ageing for its more premium siblings.
Buy now £21.99, Georgian Wine Society
Ethno Organic Qvevri Saperavi & Budeshuri 2021
Ethno is one of only a handful of certified organic wineries in Georgia with a protected designation of origin status. Owned and run by two friends, the jewel in their crown is this classy blend of Saperavi and Budeshuri, resulting in a a soft and complex red with balanced fruit and acidity.
Buy now £23.99, Georgian Wine Society
Dakishvili Kisi Pet Nat 2021
A sparkling wine from Georgia? You'd better believe it. Made by a family-run winery headed up by a father-and-son team, this fun fizz puts the Kisi grape up front and centre, while it features intoxicating aromas of pear, elderflower and citrus with flavours of peach, ginger, caramel and banana. A real conversation-starter.
Buy now £38.00, Bottles and Jars
Teliani Valley Winery 97’ Kakhuri No.8 2020
Pair fish, cheese and pork with this experimental orange number from the Teliani Valley winery in eastern Georgia. A modern facility, young winemakers and Georgian grapes come together to produce a rich and refreshing sip with ripe stone and tropical fruit aromas with dried fruit, spicy and nutty flavours.
Buy now £13.50, Noble Green Wines
PI Saperavi 2021
Proof that tiny can be mighty is this Saperavi produced at what might just be the smallest winery in a tiny garden space in the city of Tbilisi by winemakers Teona and her uncle Levan. Smooth, dense and fruity, it’s a game-changing red for red meat and aged, stinky cheese.
Buy now £18.99, Naked Wines
Visimo Kisi, Artana
Made from an indigenous grape that very nearly faced extinction, this golden-yellow white is tangy and lively, bursting with pineapple, grapefruit and pear flavours. Super with crisp salads in the summer.
Buy now £13.75, House of Townend
