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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Ellie Davis

Best cleansers for double cleansing: Oil and water-based formulas to clean and nourish

You likely fall into one of two camps where your skincare is concerned.

You may be a minimalist who sticks to just the essentials – cleanse, moisturise and SPF in the AM, or you may take your steer from K-beauty rituals and lovingly layer on as many as 12 different products that are switched up come morning or night.

For the time-pressed, the former feels like the only possible option to suit our fast-paced lifestyles, but just one cleansing product may not be effective enough in the evening to truly remove the last of makeup, dirt and grime that builds up, especially if you live in urban areas. Have you ever followed your silky sensorial cleanse by drying your face on a white hand towel only to realise that you weren’t quite as thorough with the removal of your foundation as you believed?

Cleansing is the cornerstone of any skincare routine to give you a clean canvas for the steps to follow. It is encouraged twice a day to break down excess oil, pollution, sweat, makeup and SPF. But just one pass may not provide a deep enough cleanse.

This is why the double down has gained speed in the beauty world. Instead of using a harsh, stripping option, opting for one oil-based and one water-based formula ensures that your face is truly fresh, clean and free from impurities that may cause blemishes, dullness or premature ageing while remaining kind on the complexion.

It is important to pay attention to the ingredients that comprise both stages, you want to melt away makeup without stripping the skin of its natural oils, so stick to those enriched with nourishing nutrients.

Alexandra Haq is a medical aesthetician and skincare expert. She is also the founder of the AM Aesthetics clinics in Harley Street, Marylebone & Chelsea. We got her expert opinion to find out more about the double cleansing trend.

What is double cleansing?

“Double cleansing is a two-step process used to thoroughly clean the skin. It involves first using an oil-based cleanser to break down makeup, sunscreen, and sebum on the skin's surface”, Haq begins. “This is followed by a water-based cleanser that removes sweat, dirt, and impurities left behind. This method ensures deep cleaning without stripping the skin's natural moisture, making it particularly beneficial for people who wear makeup or live in polluted areas”.

Should you double cleanse?

Double cleansing is not for everyone. Haq breaks it down. “Whether or not you should double cleanse depends on your skin type and daily habits. If you wear heavy makeup, sunscreen, or live in a polluted environment, double cleansing can help ensure your skin is thoroughly clean and free from impurities”.

She continues, “For those with oily or acne-prone skin, it may help reduce breakouts. However, if you have dry or sensitive skin and don’t wear much makeup, double cleansing may not be necessary and could potentially irritate the skin”.

How to double cleanse

It’s as simple as you expect. The aesthetician reveals, “To double cleanse, begin with an oil-based cleanser. Apply it to dry skin and gently massage it in to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and excess oils. Then, rinse with warm water. After that, follow up with a water-based cleanser suited for your skin type. Apply it to damp skin, massage in circular motions, and rinse thoroughly. Pat your face dry with a clean towel before continuing with your skincare routine”.

Can you double-cleanse with the same cleanser?

“While it's technically possible to double cleanse using the same cleanser, it's not the most effective method”, she says. “The purpose of double cleansing is to target different types of impurities with each step. An oil-based cleanser is best for removing makeup and oil-based impurities, while a water-based one cleanses sweat and dirt. Using the same cleanser twice may not be as thorough, especially if it’s not formulated to break down oils”.

Should you double cleanse twice a day?

According to Haq and confirmed by other experts like Caroline Hirons, “It’s generally unnecessary to double cleanse twice a day”.

She adds, “Double cleansing is most beneficial in the evening to remove makeup, sunscreen, and pollutants accumulated throughout the day. In the morning, a single gentle cleanse is usually sufficient to refresh the skin. Cleansing too often, especially with a double cleanse, can strip the skin of its natural oils and cause irritation, so it's best to limit it to once”.

Shop the best cleansers for the first and second steps in your routine

Best oil-based cleanser for the first cleanse

Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm

A favourite among dermatologists and skincare influencers alike and it doesn’t take long to see why. The Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm promises to offer three unique benefits - it’s nourishing, easily removes makeup as a cleansing oil and hydrates as a cleansing milk.

The original unscented product can be used safely around the eyes and claims to work for all skin types. You can also use it as a 10-minute mask if you want to indulge yourself in the full spa experience that Elemis is so famous for. There are three other fragrances; naked, rose and green fig.

Buy now £36.80, lookfantastic

Pai Skincare Light Work Rosehip Cleansing Oil

With enough oomph to remove make-up including waterproof mascara but gentle enough that it won’t aggravate sensitive rosacea-prone skin, this light oil makes a wonderful evening cleanser, particularly when the weather is cold and skin craves extra hydration.

Vegan and organic, it glides over skin and can envelop the face in just two pumps, so a little goes a long way. Rosehip oil is the star ingredient, used for its fantastic healing and strengthening powers, while seed oils ward off environmental stressors that can trigger a red, inflamed reaction. Massage onto dry skin, add water and it will rinse clean away leaving a soft, even and soothed finish. The oil benefits from a blissful orange, jasmine and basil scent too.

Buy now £26.40, Cult Beauty

Erborian Centella Cleansing Oil

Korean skincare label Erborian may be best known for its tinted CC cream, but its skincare collection is just as noteworthy. The brand is all about infusing traditional medicinal herbs with the country’s most advanced technology to bring skin-loving staples to your routine.

The Centella Cleansing Oil calls on the named ingredient that is brimming with healing and soothing properties and sets it alongside nourishing botanical oils like sweet almond oil and sunflower oil so that it nourishes the skin while dissolving dirt, sebum and even waterproof makeup. The formula transforms upon contact with water from the oil to a milky texture that spreads across the complexion and leave it glowing.

Buy now £26.00, Space NK

Clinique Take The Day Off Cleansing Balm

There is a reason why this cleanser forms the foundation of so many beauty routines around the world. It's a product that works and feels good while it's doing it. The balm has a unique texture that is lightweight. You apply it on dry skin where it lifts away impurities, grime and makeup - no matter how waterproof or long-lasting it claims to be. The formula is silky soft where a little goes a long way so you can contour, highlight and swipe mascara to your heart’s content without worrying about the removal process come evening.

Buy now £30.60, Boots

Medik8 Lipid Balance Cleansing Oil

As the first step in a multi-stage ritual, Medik8 holds its own in its ability to tackle the hard-to-remove residue and makeup without endless scrubbing and the resulting redness.

Calling on the goodness of antioxidants like fatty acid safflower oil, moringa extract for its free radical fighting prowess and vitamin E for nourishment, the Lipid Balance Cleansing Oil does away with dullness-causing impurities for a lit-from-within look. The oil is not only deliciously scented but skin feels silky soft in its wake.

Buy now £23.20, Cult Beauty

NUXE Very Rose Delicate Cleansing Oil 150ml

For a truly luxurious cleansing experience each morning and night, NUXE’s Very Rose Delicate Cleansing Oil has a spa-like quality that is as much thanks to the imbing of rose as it is the sumptuous skin-feel that you are left with after use.

It is made up of 82 per cent natural origin ingredients that have been carefully selected to be efficacious yet sensorial in equal measure. These include the rose oil extract and sweet almond oil that hydrate the complexion while removing impurities. The cleansing oil is non-stripping and yet also non-greasy, acting as a gentle option to tackle a full face of makeup in just two to three pumps.

Buy now £21.00, lookfantastic

The Inkey List Oat Cleansing Balm

This cult cleansing balm from the experts at The Inkey List is a testament to the brand’s prowess. The affordable label proves that you don’t need to spend a fortune to fill your bathroom cabinet with hard-working heroes and sumptuous textures. The Oat Cleansing Balm happens to be both with a thick balmy texture that layers onto the skin and removes makeup using a stress-relieving massage motion.

The driving force behind The Inkey List Oat Cleansing Balm is the oat kernel oil that is rich in ceramides and omega 3 and 6 fatty acids as well as collodial oatmeal that makes it a soothing product that sensitive skin can get behind. It acts as a cleanser but nourishes too. You may find that it leaves a slight film residue behind, which is why it is ideal as a first cleanse to be followed by a water-based formula. This is one you’ll repurchase over and over again.

Buy now £9.75, Amazon

Best water-based cleanser for the second cleanse

CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser with Hyaluronic Acid for Normal to Dry Skin 236ml

Best for: Hydrating thirsty skin

Best suited to: Normal - dry skin

CeraVe’s hydrating cleanser is a nourishing and gentle formula which sweeps away dirt and grime without damaging the skin’s natural barrier - in fact, it reinforces it with essential ceramides and hyaluronic acid.

As a non-foaming formula, it will leave your face feeling soft and smooth, with no feeling of tightness or dryness. Great for restoring dry skin to its former moisturised state.

Buy now £10.00, lookfantastic

Byoma Creamy Jelly Cleanser 175ml

Best for: Cleansing on a budget

Best suited to: All skin types

Byoma’s lightweight and jelly cleanser transforms into a rich foamy lather upon contact with warm water, and will leave your face feeling refreshed. It breaks down dirt, excess oil and makeup without breaking down your all-important skin barrier. Your complexion will feel nourished thanks to extracts of liquorice root and green tea.

Buy now £8.79, Cult Beauty

Tatcha The Rice Wash

Japanese skincare label Tachta is coming for each and every step of our skincare routines, replacing potentially harsh formulas with gentle-to-the-skin alternatives that are brimming with unique ingredients sure to transform your complexion. The non-stripping The Rice Wash is a cream cleanser that has Japanese rice powder at its heart.

This component has a softening effect on the skin, while also leaving a bright finish. It is set alongside a pH-neutral amino acid base to ensure that it won’t dissolve natural and essential oils as well as Okinawa Algae and hyaluronic acid to bring moisture and ceramides to fortify the skin’s barrier.

Buy now £41.00, Space NK

Sunday Riley Ceramic Slip Cleanser 150ml

Best for: A healthier-looking complexion

Best suited to: All skin types, even the most sensitive skin

Known for its potent, rich and science-based formulas, Sunday Riley is committed to creating the highest quality products with as little impact on the planet as possible - and this cleanser is no exception. The silky plant-based formula pulls out impurities whilst pulling in hydration, leaving you with smaller-looking pores and a glowing complexion.

Buy now £20.80, Sunday Riley

Biossance Squalane and Amino Aloe Gentle Cleanser

Biossance puts squalane at the heart of its products. The brand’s signature ingredient mimics squalene (that’s with an e) that is found naturally in the skin to bring hydration and moisturisation. In this gentle gel cleaner, it is paired alongside an amino acid complex, where with the added bonus of moringa extract, it makes light work of the cleansing process - no scrubbing required.

It does lather when it comes into contact with the skin and yet doesn’t feel stripping. Instead it removes dirt, pollution and oil as it imparts a healthy glow. This makes it better for a second cleanse. Combination, oily or dry skin types - the Biossance Squalane and Amino Aloe Cleanser may be for you.

Buy now £17.60, Cult Beauty

Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser Wash

A gentler option for those with slightly more reactive skin, Cetaphil’s daily face and body cleanser removes dirt, makeup and impurities while defending against skin sensitivity. If you suffer from dry spots and painful eczema, this wash will be your saviour. It is soap and fragrance-free and formulated with micellar technology, meaning you can use it with or without water.

Buy now £12.75, Boots

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermo- Cleanser Sensitive Skin

La Roche-Posay is known, loved and endlessly featured in the skincare routines of those in the know for its sensitive skin formulations that do not sacrifice efficacity. If you need any proof of this, add the Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser to your ablution practices and you’ll find yourself leading the French pharmacy label’s fan club.

The milky product feels instantly soothing on the skin at the very first application but while soothing, it also is taking away the makeup and impurities of the day. The non-stripping formula is enriched with the hydrating power of the brand’s thermal spring water and glycerin so your skin feels clean, moisturised and fresh. So soft and gentle, it has been given the thumbs up of the British Allergy Foundation.

Buy now £23.00, Boots

Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cleanser

The Ultra Facial collection from Kiehl's has remained a bestselling stalwart in the skincare label’s offering since the iconic Ultra Facial Cream was launched back in 2006. The Cleanser mimics many of the hydrating and nourishing properties of the moisturiser for the second step in your wash rituals. You can use it alone but it is made all the more effective when following an oil-based cleanser.

The gentle foaming action tackles the remnants of your makeup and dirt from the day but the real goodness comes from the quartet of skin-loving ingredients; squalane, apricot kernel oil, vitamin E and avocado oil, which individually all offer moisturisation in spades but together make for a highly nourishing cocktail that treats the complexion without stripping.

Buy now £14.00, John Lewis

e.l.f. Holy Hydration! Daily Cleanser

The overwhelmingly positive reviews for the e.l.f. Holy Hydration! Daily Cleanser proves that this is a product that punches far above its modest price tag. It is adored for the squeaky clean feeling that follows it use but it achieves this without stripping the skin of its natural oils.

Curbing sebum, dissolving makeup and removing impurities, it is made up of hydrating heroes like hyaluronic acid and ceramides that are highly moisturising. A little goes a long way to create a satisfying lather.

Buy now £6.00, Boots

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