Sartorial trends are increasingly being defined by what ‘core’ they slot into.
High fashion brands are categorised by fashion enthusiasts as embodying ‘quiet luxury’, ‘coquette’, ‘ballerina’ or ‘gorpy’ aesthetics, resulting in certain labels achieving cult status among popular clothing cliques.
Yet there’s one nostalgic trend that has re-emerged in recent years which is threatening to buck the perfectly neat categories that social media influencers have created. The bubble hem was a classic, 1980s prom silhouette which was often realised with contrasting, jewel-toned colourways yet 21st century designers have been re-introducing the puffy, dramatic finish to a bustling variety of collections.
Jeremy Scott was inspired by the vintage high school queen aesthetic in his spring/summer 2019 Moschino collection, where Gigi Hadid starred as the perfect 80s bride. Simone Rocha flirted with the flouncy hemline in a 2019 autumn/ winter collection, and Stella McCartney debuted a cape-adorned bubble mini in her summer 2024 ready-to-wear collection.
Even more recently, H&M’s bespoke 2024 Met Gala looks showcased an array of extra-inflated, flirty and feminine puff ball finishes. Slowly but surely, the bubble dress has been infiltrating popular fashion via varying aesthetic routes.
With the return of trends like indie sleaze (originally championed by stars such as Lily Allen, who was a firm fan of 80s puff ball prom dresses) and ultra-feminine coquette core, the bubble dress sits prettily in the middle ground while straddling myriad other styles.
Drop-waist silhouettes can be paired with mesh ballet flats for a ballerina-inspired look, while maxi bubble dresses might be combined with baggy tees and hiking-style trainers to embody a sporty-chic aesthetic. The styling possibilities afforded by the humble bubble dress are surprisingly endless.
We’ve curated a selection of the best bubble dresses on the market right now, no matter what your aesthetic may be.
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Reformation Clea Dress
Available in a gorgeous gingham print, this ruched bubble mini from Reformation is perfectly suited for your next far-flung break. Fitted at the bodice with a full, flouncy skirt, it’s a fabulous contemporary spin on the classic 80s silhouette.
Buy now £228.00, Reformation
Urban Revivo bubble hem midi dress in white
Uber flattering and realised in a modest, midi length, this crew neck piece features slightly differing textures on the bodice and the skirt for a unique yet understated look. We love how the brand has paired it with bright red pumps and a slicked-back bun.
Buy now £50.00, Urban Revivo
Krayofa Puffball Mini Dress In Baby Pink
It’s 80s prom queen galore over at Motel Rocks with the Krayofa Puffball Mini. Offered in baby pink and black, we simply adore the subtle bow detailing at the back.
Buy now £42.00, Motel Rocks
Aje Violette Bubble Hem Maxi Dress
Complete with delicate ruching at the bodice for an endlessly flattering fit, Aje’s Violette dress has an asymmetrical bubble hem for elegant sophistication paired with a sprinkling of flirtatious fun. Whether you’re dressing up with sky-high heels and statement jewellery or going the simple route with gorgeous ballet flats, this piece is sure to stun.
Buy now £555.00, Aje
Smocked off-the-shoulder dress
No beach holiday is complete without a smocked mini to throw on after a day by the sea. Though available in multiple colours and patterns, we’re partial to the delicate florals which adorn this ivory-coloured option.
Buy now £27.99, H&M
Elexiay Kebbi Dress
We love how the ruched, one-shoulder body of this dress is offset by the crisp, perfectly bouncy bubble skirt. The lilac hue makes it a brilliant choice for any high-class event on your spring/summer calendar.
Buy now £328.00, Free People
Calla Lilly Dress
Unlike the vast majority of bubble dresses that we’ve come across, the Calla Lilly dress from Free People has a shapeless, free-flowing silhouette for premium comfort and maximum style. The drop-waist top half of the dress is crafted from a super soft jersey material, while the bottom consists of a pleated poplin.
Buy now £140.00, Free People
Amy Lynn Alexa puffed-hem stretch-woven midi dress
It doesn’t get any more 80s than royal blue. Brilliant for day and night events alike, this dress by Amy Lynn slips on and hugs the body with its ruched sides and self-tie straps.
Buy now £99.00, Selfridges
Mango short puffed hem dress
Effortlessly chic, this all-black puffed hem dress from Mango is complemented by a classic racerback design. Wonderfully versatile, simply on your favourite ballet flats and run your weekend errands before swanning into your local pub to meet some pals on a sunny afternoon.
Buy now £29.99, Mango
Selkie The Peach Skin French Puff
The Regency-inspired branch of Coquette Core has come to be defined by Wildfox co-founder Kimberley Gordon’s latest venture. Selkie, which refers to the mythological woman of the ocean who lives inside a seal skin, is defined by voluminous taffeta, organza and silk frocks. The brand’s gorgeous collections capture the essence of springtime and embody the dresses which we could’ve only dreamed of as young girls.
This peachy pink puff dress is one of the brand’s signature pieces, and is a must-have for any lover of coquette style.
Buy now £214.00, Selkie
Cherish Jacquard Mini Dress
Enter your Bridgerton era with this jacquard mini dress from Sister Jane. Adorned with perfectly peachy and pink florals, this dress is complete with a fitted waist, extra puffy sleeves and – of course – a bubble hem.
Buy now £69.00, Sister Jane
Red Bubble Dress
Flirty and oh-so French, this ultra mini ruched bubble dress from Après Studio is made from highly breathable, 100 per cent cotton sourced from a deadstock market for sustainable style all summer long. A bold red lip and some black-heeled Mary Janes are sure to complete the outfit.
Buy now £207.54, Après Studio
