When I see a spot brewing, no matter at what stage I first notice it, I can’t do anything else until that bad boy has been thoroughly picked, squeezed, prodded and inevitably made five to 10 times worse than if I had just left it alone from the outset.
I earn a crust writing about beauty products (amongst other things) and so spend a lot of time talking to dermatologists and skincare experts who all unanimously agree that this is not the best course of action. And yet, the cycle continues.
There are actually some spots that do require extraction in order to accelerate the healing process. On a Zoom call in the middle of lockdown, I had the opportunity to discuss this with Dr Pimple Popper herself, American dermatologist Sandra Lee MD who confirmed this very fact.
Some blemishes are made to be busted, and I’m only too happy to oblige - but the right tools are essential to achieve that feeling of satisfaction, rather than regret.
You don’t need to be fans of the viral videos of Pompeii-level of their eruptions to partake. Even the squeamish can opt for the likes of pore vacuuming or good chemical exfoliants in order to tackle blackheads without exacerbating the situation or leaving hard-to-heal scars.
There are many types of blackhead removing products, from the suctioning vacuums mentioned above, to pore strips and exfoliating serums containing blemish busting ingredients like salicylic acid. We consulted Dr Natalie Geary, Founder of the Light Touch Clinic to find out more.
First and foremost, what are blackheads?
“Blackheads are commonly found on and around the face - typically on the nose, and are made up of oxidised melanin which is why they appear dark. These are also known as comedones which are pores that have been blocked with oils, dead skin and bacteria.”
What causes blackheads?
“As dead skin cells and oil collect in the opening to the skin follicle, it produces a bump called a comedo. Blackheads form when the skin over the bump opens and is exposed to the air, which causes it to oxidise and look black.
“Melanin is produced in our skin and that is what gives our hair and skin its colour. For example when we tan, this is our melanin production working overtime to protect our cells against the UV and gives us that tanned glow - and the same happens with blackheads. When melanin is exposed to the air, it oxidises and turns dark protecting the nucleus of the cell. Therefore, blackheads are not dirty, so harsh scrubbing and or over cleaning them does not make much of a difference, it is extraction we need to focus on to minimise them.”
What is the difference between blackheads vs whiteheads?
“Blackheads and whiteheads are types of non-inflammatory acne that form around the same places with similar sizes. The differences between the two are that whiteheads are more raised as the trapped oils and bacteria form underneath the skin, whereas the bacteria that turns into blackheads have been oxidised around the pores.”
How do you get rid of them?
“It is important to avoid harsh scrubs but a gentle exfoliator and cleanser will remove the dead skin cells that clog your pores. It is normal for blackheads to keep coming back but they can be reduced for longer periods of time with the right tools such as pore strips, vacuums and microdermabrasion. Use products that have been specifically formulated to not clog pores and avoid buildup.”
How do you prevent them from coming back?
“It is difficult to eliminate blackheads completely but there are measures you can take to minimise their impact. For example removing makeup in the evenings, doing regular gentle exfoliators typically once a week and washing your face once or twice a day depending on your skin type. It is also wise to avoid products with alcohol and oil-based skin care. Hydro facials are also recommended as they include exfoliating and extracting the blackheads.”
Is it ever ok to squeeze them?
“It is always recommended to avoid squeezing and picking blackheads as it will irritate the skin. It can also build more bacteria or become infected if done with your nails which may contain dirt or other bacteria. As well as irritating the skin, popping blackheads by hand could potentially enlarge the pores in the future. If you wish to extract blackheads and any type of spots it is advised to do so at a professional clinic that have the necessary tools for extraction that will minimise any damage to your skin.”
What methods are available to remove blackheads?
“Pore strip: These strips are often made with a type of cloth and adhesive to pull out dead skin and clogged pores. If your skin is sensitive often pore strips can be too harsh for your face and create redness or irritation.
Pore vacuums: pore vacuums are used to suction out the bacteria and oils from your pores which can be done at home. It is important to have the vacuum on the right setting for your skin as there could be possible side effects such as bruising.
Microdermabrasion: Microdermabrasion uses gentle crystals that help remove the surface of the blackheads which is followed by a vacuum eliminating the rest of the imperfections and blemishes. It is also used to speed up cell renewal in the process.
It’s important to learn how to use these tool properly, because if used incorrectly, it can cause permanent skin damage and scarring. You must also understand how to properly prep the skin before doing these sorts of extractions such as loosening the pores with warm water and washing your face properly beforehand.”
Shop the best products for blackhead removal below
Best relaxation gadgets and mindfulness tools to help you unwind
Best cordless hair tools to style, straighten or curl your hair
Best acne treatments and spot creams to fight facial blemishes
How to get rid of body acne: the best acne treatments to banish back, chest and body acne
Best products for acne scars and hyperpigmentation
Best facial cleansers to suit dry, combination or oily skin
Best retinol skincare products for an overnight, anti-ageing reboot
Best products with azelaic acid to brighten skin and help fight acne
Sarah Chapman Skinesis Pro Pore Refiner
Remove impurities from your skin and leave it feeling silky smooth with the help of the Skinesis Pro Pore Refiner. The brand - founded by the renowned A-list facialist, has created this at-home device based on the treatments from Chapman’s Chelsea clinic.
Designed to extract all the nasties like bacteria, oil and makeup that can clog pores and lead to blackheads in the first place, the gadget has a three-step process.
First, your complexion will be treated to thermo-therapy and ionic cleansing for two minutes (that’s the yellow light) that preps the skin for what’s to come. Through the next stage of ultrasonic vibrations (blue light), the aforementioned gunk is loosened by massage before the final extraction phase begins (white light) with a suction akin to vacuuming. This lasts for just one minute to prevent lasting marks.
You can adjust the strength where the brand advises starting on level one and increasing as is needed.
Buy now £132.00, Cult Beauty
PMD Personal Microderm Pro
Purge your pores with this microdermabrasion device that uses a patented technique of spinning discs and Aluminium Oxide crystals to act as a gentle exfoliant. Removing dead skin cells in its wake, the post-Microderm complexion is glowing, clear and fresh. It works through a suction process that encourages better circulation and collagen production to also work on easing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
There are just two speed settings, which makes it very simple to use, but take it slow and build up. There are different attachments for different areas of the face and body and offering variations in strength. Go for white to begin and breakouts be gone.
Buy now £179.00, lookfantastic
DERMAFLASH DERMAPORE Ultrasonic Pore Extractor Serum Infuser Charcoal
If you’ve been known to watch YouTube tutorials of celebrities or experts walking through their skincare routine, you’ll probably recognise this device that regularly features. The Extractor has double the benefits as it offers ultrasonic skin scrubbing as well as infusion technology. This means that you will be treating your skin to a thorough and deep clean of dirt, oils and other bacteria that may clog pores, while also prepping the skin for your potent serums to follow, encouraging a better absorption of the powerhouse ingredients.
The head is shaped like a spatula to more closely resemble the same devices often found in professional treatments and get in those hard-to-reach areas like around the nose. You can use in the shower and in fact it works better when skin is warmed and wet. Be kind and go light with the pressure.
Buy now £69.30, FeelUnique
Tweezerman Skincare Tool
Stripping back all the gadgets and gizmos, this reliable tool should be your go-to for extractions in lieu of your fingers that may trap dirt under the nails and exacerbate the pore-clogging. Built to stand the test of time, you’ll be removing gunk for years to come with this stainless steel option. It has a non-slip textured area to encourage better hold.
To use, you must begin with a hot shower and let the steam wash over you to open your pores. The long flat loop end is made for whiteheads but you need to wait until it has broken through the skin. The shorter, angled end allows you to press out the content of the blackhead without damaging the skin. It is vitally important to keep this tool clean and sterilised before use.
Buy now £13.00, Amazon
Brushworks HD Blackhead & Blemish Remover Set
Retire your spot squeezing fingers for good with this set from Brushworks HD that has all the tools you need to clear ready-to-go spots without leading to infection or scarring.
When the spots and ripe, the stainless steel tools each have a part to play in the extraction process. There’s a curved tweezer, angled loop, spoon extractor and smaller loop - together boasting seven different ends in order to give you the ability to tackle any blemish in any area of the face.
Buy now £14.95, Beauty Bay
Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
There is a reason why beauty editors everywhere don’t stop waxing lyrical about this serum from Paula’s Choice. Unlike exfoliators of time gone by, this is a leave-on product that you apply after you have cleansed your skin.
It is packed with blemish-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid but combines this with soothing and calming properties so doesn’t aggravate further irritations, and also targets the appearance of fine lines as an added bonus.
The multipurpose product has a lightweight and non-greasy texture and should be followed by an SPF of at least 30 when used during the day. In only a couple of weeks you will start to notice that blemishes become clearer and pores are minimised.
Spot type tested: Blackheads, hormonal acne and irritations
Results: Clearer skin and a preventative measure
Buy now £31.00, Paula’s Choice
Clinique Blackhead Solutions Self-Heating Blackhead Extractor
Clinique has created a unique product here. No matter your skin type, you can incorporate it into your routine when a pesky spot just won’t seem to go away on its own. Wet the area in question and apply the formula, which is self-heating. The Thermal Active Technology offers a warming effect that opens clogged pores so you can remove dirt and oil that may lead to blackheads. There’s also salicylic acid and glucosamime to clear dead skin cells as well as calming ingredients so that even those with sensitivies can use. Use the tip to massage it into the skin.
Buy now £22.00, Clinique
Starface Lift Off Pore Strips
From its pimple patches, to these pore strips, Starface create products that may even have you wishing a blemish would pop up. The bright yellow plaster-esque strips are applied over the nose, without taking away half your skin when you peel it off. Instead, it is gentle with aloe vera contained within the formula and only removes the dirt, oil and contents of your blackheads in its wake. It’s also vegan.
Buy now £4.99, Superdrug
Biore Witch Hazel Ultra Pore Strips X 4
Pore strips may take you down memory lane to the sleepovers of your youth and no doubt Biore was the brand that you used. Still working a charm, the label has packed its nose strips with antibacterial witch hazel for a deep clean. For true satisfaction, once you peel it off, don’t forget to look on the strip to see all the gunk that you’ve removed.
Buy now £5.99, Superdrug
