From Maison Margiela’s infamous Tabi ballerina pumps, to Sandy Liang’s take on practical pointe shoes, ballet pumps have been all the rage across luxury ateliers.
Indeed, what has become known as balletcore is being adopted by influencers and models alike, so much so that it feels near impossible to get your hands on a pair before they’re all scooped up.
While some readers might shun the ballet flat as nothing more than a shoe that their mothers bought for them during their earliest years, others (like us) might already be knee-deep in legwarmers, sheer stockings, wrap around knit cardigans and hair gel. Don’t be fooled, the eighties aren’t calling, but the prima ballerina aesthetic is.
A brief history
The earliest iterations of ballet flats made their foray into the fashion world from that of the stage way back in the sixteenth century and have seen ebbs and flows in popularity since. The politics of fashion and the nature of sumptuary laws were in constant flux in the centuries to follow. Catherine de Medici popularised the heeled shoe for women in the late seventeenth century, but Marie Antoinette’s journey to the guillotine in the same heeled design saw their popularity dissipate again.
The nineteenth and twentieth centuries brought forth a desire for more functional shoes. However, it was the iconic French actress and model (and aspiring ballerina in her early life), Brigitte Bardot, who in 1956 first commissioned Rose Repetto to design "a pair of shoes as lightweight and flexible as true ballet slippers” (according to Jean-Marc Gaucher, CEO of Repetto in an interview with Refinery 29).
The design’s popularity quickly spread to other mid-century icons like Anouk Aimée and Audrey Hepburn - and it is thus through Bardot’s request that we now have the iconic and ever-recognisable ballet flat which we all know and love. Noughties icons such as Kate Moss and Alexa Chung brought the pump back into the limelight for a brief moment, but the Ten’s saw the rise of the sneaker instead.
Ok. History lesson over.
Recently, designers such as Miu Miu, Chanel and Simone Rocha have exhibited their own version of ballet flats on the runway. The AW22 shows featured slicked back buns, next-to-nothing makeup looks and silky slip dresses. Meanwhile, models such as Lily-Rose Depp, Bella Hadid and Camille Rowe have been strutting about in the chic French-girl staple with nothing but a pair of vintage Levi’s and a t-shirt.
The mainstream popularity of ballet flats has thereby soared once again, and they are in as high a demand as ever. That’s right, time to embrace the true versatility of the iconic design.
We’ve put together an edit of the best ballerina flats on the market for you to twirl around in. Have a look below.
Vibi Venezia Whipstitched velvet Mary Jane flats
Vibi Venezia has modernised the traditional Venetian furlane slipper – worn by gondoliers for centuries – with a ballerina pump twist. These beautiful velvet whipstitched flats come in a variety of colourways, but we particularly love the simple elegance of these deep navy wonders.
Buy now £95.00, Matches Fashion
Ganni Black Scrunchie Ballerina Flats
All scrunched up, just like the worn and modified pointe shoes of a real-life ballerina. Copenhagen atelier Ganni has graced us with these ultra-flexible and versatile square-toed flats.
Buy now £225.00, Ganni
The Row Boheme MJ in Leather
Pointed, polished and practically perfect. Mary-Kate and Ashley’s cult favourite brand hasn’t been around for a huge amount of time, but it has certainly made its mark within the fashion industry. These white leather ballet flats with an adjustable pin strap would make an excellent addition to your autumn/winter wardrobe. Pair them with a funky pair of sheer socks and a long, gathered skirt for a subtle flirtation with the balletcore aesthetic.
Buy now £960.00, MyTheresa
ASOS DESIGN Leonie embellished Mary Jane ballet flats
Double the buckle, double the trouble, these are another Mary Jane spin on the traditional ballerina pump, this time with sparkly embellishments. Our inner magpie is showing.
Buy now £15.61, ASOS
PORTE & PAIRE Bow-embellished satin ballet flats
If it’s pointe-inspired flats you want, you’ll get them with Porte & Paire. You’ll be wearing and paring these pink satin beauties on the daily for as long as they can stand it.
Buy now £126.75, Net-A-Porter
Miu Miu Satin Ballerinas
It doesn’t get any better than this. White satin, ribbed legwarmers (devastatingly not included) and a branded elasticated and knitted strap – we’re head over heels for this ballerina pump. Though paired with delicate beaded pieces on the runway, Miu Miu have also been known to style these eponymous pumps in a sportier manner. Think extra-short tennis skirts and sweater vests. Choose your fighter. Blair Waldorf or Sporty Spice?
Buy now £700.00, Miu Miu
Roger Viver Très Vivier crystal-buckled velvet ballet flats
Très Vivier, très to die for. Featured here in a frosty grey hue, these velvet ballerinas combine Vivier’s signature buckle embellishment with the simple gracefulness of the ballet slipper silhouette. You’ll be twirling away like a ballerina princess.
Buy now £990.00, Matches
French Sole Amelie bow-embellished leather ballet flats
Effortlessly luxurious, comfortable, and chic – adjectives that French Sole specialise in. The brand is almost solely dedicated to ballet pumps and the expertise in the matter is thus unmatched.
Founded in London in 1989 by Jane Winkworth, who is now known as the ‘The Queen of Ballet Flats’, French Sole brought the style of our favourite French movie stars across the Channel. We simply can’t imagine your first pair of ballet pumps being bought from anywhere else.
Buy now £72.00, French Sole
Bethany Ballet Flat
Ever since Miu Miu sent a pair of buckled, wickedly embellished ballet flats down the SS16 runway, we've been trying to find a pair that captures the very same gothic ballerina essence. These beautiful studded flats from Reformation certainly aren't far off (sans ribbon), and we love the idea of styling them with boyfriend jeans and a plain white t-shirt.
Buy now £298.00, Reformation
Floral-Embroidered Pearl-Buckle Mary Janes - Multi
These vintage-inspired tapestry flats by Charles & Keith look as though they've walked right out of a local history museum and into our wardrobes. We're not complaining.
Buy now, Charles & Keith
Camilla Elphick Lover Black Flats
We're head over heels for these heart-shaped flats by Camilla Elphick. Though available in array of colours, these festive silver flats have captured our hearts
Buy now £230.00, Camilla Elphick
Mach & Mach Womens Black Audrey Heart-Embellished Leather Flats
Embellished with a delicate trim of diamante hearts, you'll define the concept of twinkle toes when wearing these precious flats.
Buy now £535.00, Selfridges
Low Mary Jane Diamante Velvet Shoe - Black
These Mary Jane flats by Penelope Chilvers are effortlessly elevated by a delicate embellished buckle. We're also a huge fan of the flattering squared toe.
Buy now £219.00, Penelope Chilvers
