Navigating the latest ideas in the world of men’s fashion this season includes wearing a pussy-bow blouse (Gucci), embracing a flared trouser (Raf Simons) or opting for leopard (Saint Laurent).
As a modern man of the world’s finest city you’re wholeheartedly encouraged to get on board with such proposals as best you see fit.
And while you ponder such sartorial terrain don’t forget the seasonal shopping rush that is tracking down a new coat you won’t be bored to sobs with by December.
Here’s the good news: autumn/winter 2015 is a pure coat feast at every price level. The bad? You might need a game plan to get to the good stuff. So here goes.
Analyse this
Assess your wardrobe to see what coats you already have that you still wear. Then focus on buying something different. The one surefire way to combating boredom is to develop a bit of a coat repertoire so you can rotate. This will also help with the seesaw weather in our fair capital. Basically, if you bought a pea coat in recent winters, look for a parka. I know. It’s like rocket science but with extra fastenings.
Do your research
Try stuff on. Peruse online. Draw up a shortlist. Even if you think runway fashions are madness of the highest order don’t dismiss the shows as a general source of inspiration. If this idea leaves you cold (boom, boom) then here are the headline trends.
Oversized wool coats — think roomy — are still definitely a thing. Lanvin is king at this, as is Acne Studios, though Zara has also amply covered the style.
In terms of colour, if you want smashingly bright, Gucci’s red duffle is one of the season’s highs, as is the red hooded number by buzz designer Gosha Rubchinskiy, which opened his show in Paris. Obviously, camel and khaki are the more user-friendly hues — see APC, COS and Whistles. Plus, shearling is making noise, but we’ll come back to that in a minute.
Layers, layers, layers
Eye-rollingly obvious, but in a city where you’re on and off public transport or in and out of air con, there is a case beyond mere styling fanciness for wearing two lighter coats together. Basically, the bomber jacket layered under an overcoat is a modern spin on wearing a suit under your trench.
River Island’s taupe duster coat is lightweight and roomy, ideal for wearing over a denim jacket. M&S has a black water-resistant mac that is brilliantly, boringly practical, and has a whiff of this season’s Prada, that would layer up well.
With the zip-up jacket as the central item in next spring’s wardrobe, COS’s glossy version is both a winner and a bit J W Anderson (which is good, obvs).
Update a classic
Yes, here we go with a U-turn from point 1 (that’s fashion for you folks). If you’re dedicated to one coat cause don’t fight it, just upgrade it. Take the parka, a coat that looks equally brilliant on David Attenborough in the Arctic as it does on Ben Whishaw during filming for the latest Bond film — it’s not particularly directional but its popularity is booming. Yves Solomon, Moncler and Canada Goose are experts in this particular field. In a similar way, Whistles has a waterproof khaki mac with removable hood or a black-wadded parka, both for less than £200.
Meanwhile, classic overcoats are also being remixed this season. For example, you’ll find belted styles that have a whiff of dressing gown. Topman has one in grey, Reiss has one in navy. Fancy!
Find a hero
No harm in having one. Or two. James Dean in Times Square. Raf Simons at Frieze. Ryan O’Neal in sheepskin. O’Neal is particularly apt this season, with shearling forming part of a broader Seventies mood in menswear. It was backed in high places: Valentino, Fendi and Burberry Prorsum all showed versions that were cut slim to feel modern. Here’s a coat to not scrimp on.
Meanwhile, Margaret Howell’s car coat in sheepskin costs a fortune but speaks of rugged English beaches, which is clearly far more O’Neal in feel than Del Boy in a three-wheeler. And after all, no one wants a coat that says “plonker” circa 2015.
Simon Chilvers is men’s style director of matchesfashion.com
