While most watches may look similar – at least, to the untrained eye – they’re certainly not all built equally.
Automatic watches are self-winding timepieces that never require winding or batteries to keep you reassuringly punctual to every work meeting, and, of course, fashionably late for social occasions.
Invented in the 1920s, automatic styles intuitively wind with the movement of your body, thanks to complex mechanics tucked deep inside. Secreted away beneath the face, they’re equipped with rotating weights that wind a spring as and when you move, which turns the hands and rolls the date.
Those who don’t wear their watch very often needn’t worry, as the automatic movement cleverly stores extra energy that’s slowly released when the rotating weight is stationary – although longer periods may require you to reset the time and date, and give it a gentle shake to get the mechanics going again.
Failing that, you can always buy an automatic watch winder that comes in the form of a sleek and sophisticated box where your timepiece is stored and gently rocked to keep it moving. Simply make a habit of popping it in overnight and picking it up again the next morning.
Zoe Nicholls, senior public relations manager at Rotary Watches, says: “An automatic timepiece represents a connection to the past, where time was measured by skilled artisans meticulously assembling each tiny component by hand. The intricate inner workings of an automatic watch are a marvel to behold and can be seen through exhibition case backs, providing a captivating visual experience.
While quartz watches offer convenience and accuracy, owning an automatic watch elevates the experience of timekeeping to an art form. It is a symbol of craftsmanship, heritage and a love for the intricacies of mechanical mastery.
For those seeking a timeless and prestigious accessory, an automatic watch is a true testament to one’s discerning taste and appreciation for the finest horological traditions.”
Below, we dig into the latest and greatest automatic watches to splash out on, and find out just what makes them tick.
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Rotary Regent Automatic
Offering incredible value-for-money for quality Swiss timepieces, Rotary was founded in 1985 by renowned watchmaker Moise Dreyfuss, and remains a brand to buy to this day. The Rotary Regent Automatic characterises its trademark aesthetics, featuring a multi-faceted brushed stainless-steel case housed within a circular dial and mounted on a tapered bracelet, together with a black face, luminous markers and date window. Technology-wise, it’s powered by a self-winding movement and is water-resistant up to 100m, making it as good for the beach as it is the boardroom. What are you waiting for?
Buy now £349.00, Rotary
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Men’s Watch
Launched in 1997, it was clear that the iconic Aquanaut by renowned Swiss watchmaker Patek Philippe would become a future classic, not least because of its innovative rounded octagon face. It remains an investment piece to this day, featuring the same self-winding mechanical movement – visible through the case at the back – together with a khaki green rubber strap that’s ultra-resistant to both water and light (previously unseen, back in the day). Then there’s the face, emblazoned with Arabic numerals, that’s protected by scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass and framed in a striking 18-carat white cold case. A thing of enduring beauty.
Buy now £39530.00, Mappin & Webb
Fossil Fenmore Automatic Stainless Steel
At the budget end of the scale, American fashion brand Fossil offers some cracking automatics, fusing contemporary good looks with traditional quality watchmaking. Case in point is the Fenmore: a striking model with a look-at-me 44mm face, white sunray dial, automatic movement and luxurious brown strap. Bang for your buck, as the Americans would say.
Buy now £153.00, Fossil
Rolex Submariner Date
The Rolex Submariner was the first-ever divers’ wristwatch to be waterproof to a depth of 100m when it was first created back in 1953. It can now withstand a depth of 300m, while its signature characteristics – rotatable bezel, luminescent display, large hands – remain largely the same (albeit updated for contemporary gents, of course). Our pick is this statement iteration with a strap made from both gold and steel, a royal-blue dial – for increased visibility in dark environments – and that signature bezel. The Rolex to rock.
Buy now £13150.00, Mappin & Webb
Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80
With 80 hours of reserve energy to power your watch from the moment you stop wearing it – twice the amount of most styles, no less – the Le Locle from Swiss brand Tissot, which dates back to 1853, is a quality automatic that’s surprisingly affordable. The interchangeable bracelet means you can swap the strap in and out to keep it looking brand new while the scratch-resistant case with anti-reflective coating protects it from harm. A savvy buy.
Buy now £535.00, Ernest Jones
Seiko SRPK17
Box-fresh, the limited-edition SRPK17 from Japanese-maker Seiko has been created to celebrate the 55th anniversary of its beloved 5 Sports watch, largely hailed as one of the best entry-level automatics out there. This modern iteration is inspired by the original style of 1968 and is powered by its tried-and-trusted Caliber 4R36 automatic movement together with a rotating bezel, screw-case back and durable bracelet. You’ll need to be quick to snap up one of only 15,555 when it’s released in July 2023 – shop it while it’s hot.
Buy now £350.00, Seiko
Raymond Weil Maestro
Raymond Weil is one of the last family-owned watchmakers in Switzerland and its Maestro is one of the best automatic styles that won’t break the bank. The automatic mechanism is stashed away in the back of the 40mm case, albeit visible, while the black dial, brown leather strap and gold accents add understated panache to unrivalled performance. A sound investment.
Buy now £1350.00, Goldsmiths
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch
Having travelled to the moon and back – quite literally, on the wrist of Neil Armstrong for the Apollo 11 mission of 1969 – the Omega Speedmaster remains one of the most iconic automatic watches in existence. The black chronograph dial is instantly recognisable, surrounded by a matching black bezel, complemented by a self-winding engine (with five hour power reserve), five-row stainless-steel bracelet and sapphire crystal glass case front and back. A testament to its timelessness.
Buy now £7400.00, Ernest Jones
Nomos Glashütte Tetra Neomatik 39 Automatic
Those who favour a dress watch over a sports one could do worse than fork out for the Nomos Glashütte by the esteemed German maker. An elegant case, sophisticated leather strap and neat silhouette means it sits pretty beneath the cuff of even the most formal of shirts while slimline and angular on the wrist. Flip it over to reveal the DUW 3001 calibre automatic mechanism visible on the back, complemented on the front by a black face, signature orange second hand and white Arabic numerals. Serious class.
Buy now £3060.00, Mr Porter
Timex Marlin Sub-Dial Automatic
Formerly released with a manual winder back in 2017, the Timex Marlin by the American manufacturer is now available in a raft of automatic iterations, but our pick is the Sub-Dial Automatic. It’s a steal at just £250, with smart aesthetics that are as suitable for everyday as they are evenings, together with reliable timekeeping courtesy of a Japanese-made mechanism showcased via the exhibition case back. Other neat details abound, including blue and red accents, an Arabic dial with date feature and stainless-steel case, plus a sexy leather strap.
Buy now £250.00, Timex
Christopher Ward The Twelve
Bringing together British design and Swiss watchmaking, Christopher Ward offers a covetable range of quality timepieces, which now includes The Twelve available towards the end of July 2023. Crafted for ultra-wearability – whether rough ‘n’ tough outdoor activities or more genteel cocktail hours, for example – it’s the best of both worlds in a sturdy but sophisticated design. A glacier-blue face comprises a three-dimensional pyramid pattern that catches the light; the integrated bracelet is made from single links of varying sizes to create pleasing taper with a near-invisible butterfly clasp; and a rear window exhibits all the mechanics and movement inside with six exposed screws. Everyday elegance.
Buy now £1050.00, Christopher Ward
