From genetics to sun exposure, hyperpigmentation can be caused by many different factors and it’s usually harmless.
But if you’re concerned about its appearance or want to even out your complexion, there is an ingredient you need to know about.
Alpha arbutin has been used in lightening products since the millennium but is gaining more traction among the beauty community. It is lauded for being easily tolerated, safe and relatively gentle on the likes of freckles, melasma and other forms of hyperpigmentation. But it is right for you?
We consulted Emma Lamb, Lead Nurse at SK:N Clinics and Maja Swierczynska, Cosmetic Dermatology Lead at Harley Academy and The Academy Clinic; Skin Expert at STORY Clinics to find out everything you need to know about this ingredient.
What is alpha arbutin serum used for?
Alpha arbutin is a naturally occurring compound that is derived from bearberry, cranberry and pear leaves and used in skincare for its skin-brightening properties. Lamb explains, “It works by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme that plays a crucial role in melanin production. The benefits include fading hyperpigmentation, evening out skin tone, and enhancing brightness”.
Swierczynska adds “Unlike hydroquinone, alpha arbutin is gentle on the skin and less likely to cause irritation. You’ll often find it combined with other ingredients to enhance its effects”.
Can I use vitamin C serum with alpha arbutin?
Speaking of stellar pairings, both experts stress the efficacity of pairing alpha arbutin with vitamin C. Lamb says, “These two ingredients complement each other well, especially if you're targeting concerns like hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone and dullness”, while Swierczynska expands, “they work well together to improve uneven skin tone through different mechanisms. Both are potent antioxidants. Vitamin C addresses pigmentation by reversing the early stages of pigment production, effectively preventing new dark spots from forming”.
How to use an alpha arbutin serum
Lamb breaks it down.
- Using an alpha arbutin serum is simple. Firstly, cleanse your skin, then dispense 2 to 3 drops of the serum onto your clean fingertips or directly onto your face.
- Then pat or massage it into your skin.
- Allow one to two minutes to pass, then apply a moisturiser. This seals in hydration
- For optimal protection, it’s imperative to finish your morning routine with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, ideally with an SPF of 50 or higher.
How often should you use an alpha arbutin serum?
“The frequency of alpha arbutin application depends on your specific goal”, reveals the Cosmetic Dermatology Lead. “If you’re treating existing dark spots or hyperpigmentation, applying it twice a day for more noticeable results is recommended. “However, if you’re using it as a preventative measure to address uneven skin tone or avoid future pigmentation, applying it once a day is sufficient”.
She stresses “Alpha arbutin works even more effectively when combined with other active ingredients such as retinol. Retinol accelerates cell turnover, which helps to fade dark spots faster. This allows alpha arbutin to work more efficiently by targeting both the existing pigmentation and the process that causes it. Always follow with sunscreen in the morning, as exposure to UV rays can negate the brightening effects of these ingredients”.
How to store alpha arbutin serum?
Both skin experts want you to pay close attention to this to ensure the effectiveness and longevity of your alpha arbutin-based product. “Keep it in a cool dark place that has a stable temperature”, Lamb notes.
Swierczynska adds, “It’s important to keep the product sealed tightly after use. This helps prevent exposure to air and moisture, which can degrade the serum”, before concluding, “Always check the expiry date on the product to make sure it’s still within its optimal shelf life. Even though alpha arbutin is quite stable, proper storage practices can further ensure it remains effective over time”.
Shop the best alpha arbutin serums below
OBAGI Nu-Derm Fx Brightening Cream
Obagi is a dermatologist-recommended label that Emma Lamb, Lead Nurse at SK:N Clinics vouches for. She remarks on its medical-grade status and highlights that it has been “specifically formulated with nature-identical arbutin”.
Applied to oily, normal or combination skin types, the potent formula encourages skin renewal, while brightening and evening out skin tone. The antioxidant at its heart - arbutin - is to thank for these benefits as it regulates melanin production. Take a beat after application to allow the product to absorb into the skin and follow with a rich moisturiser and SPF.
Buy now £61.90, Notino
Naturium Alpha Arbutin Serum 2%
Naturium was my first introduction to the brightening prowess of alpha arbutin. In the label’s signature style, it is an affordable take but packs clinical efficacity. The named and main ingredient improves the appearance of dark spots but it is set alongside niacinamide to enhance this as well as hyaluronic acid to inject the complexion with hydration. The use of natural ingredients makes this tolerable to all skin types and the gel texture is easily applied, absorbed and feels lightweight.
Buy now £22.00, Space NK
The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA
Alpha arbutin takes a starring role in this formula from The Ordinary. The sole purpose of this product is to minimise hyperpigmentation like dark spots and it takes a heavy-hitting approach to achieving this goal. But while that may make it harsh on the complexion, it is blended with hyaluronic acid to soothe, hydrate and make it tolerated by all skin types. The serum has a light, water-based texture that makes a noticeable difference on the complexion, including redness and rosacea.
Buy now £10.50, The Ordinary
Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rice + Alpha-Arbutin
Korean skincare label Beauty of Joseon has made a splash on UK soil, bringing with it clean formulas that harness the power of natural and herbal ingredients in line with the traditional Korean medicine practice Hanbang.
If glowing skin is your goal, this serum has got you covered with a blend of rice bran water, niacinamide, propolis extract and alpha arbutin, all of which have been selected to soothe and improve the skin’s health and brighten. The latter ingredient plays a part in correcting hyperpigmentation and uneven tone.
Buy now £14.10, Amazon
Decree Treat Tincture 30ml
Retinol has been combined with an interesting apple stem cell component to create this treatment from Decree. The doctor-led brand was founded by Dr Anita Sturnham to bring science-backed formulas to our bathroom cabinets that really work. The line-up is clearly marked with the time of day in which they should be used and how regular.
For the Treat Tincture, you have a daily PM product designed to work overnight to combat signs of ageing, from fine lines to pigmentation. And for the latter, alpha arbutin is contained within to brighten. There is also hyaluronic acid and squalane to nourish and prevent some of the side effects associated with retinol in order to make each application well tolerated by the skin.
Buy now £130.00, Face The Future
