The alcohol-free industry has been booming in the beverage space in the last few years and now its place in fragrance is under threat.
With the rise of clean beauty, the ingredient has been placed in the ‘nasties’ category alongside common preservatives and chemicals like parabens, aluminium and sulphates - but here’s the thing, it’s not always bad.
It is generally associated with disrupting the skin barrier and thus leaving skin dehydrated or igniting sensitivities but it holds an important place in the scenting space, generally the first named and main component.
So what does it do? “The alcohol acts as the carrier in fragrances to help the scent ‘lift off’ the skin”, explains Nic Mastenbroek, perfumer at Ruth Mastenbroek Perfumer London. “Alcohol is a very volatile material, which means it evaporates very quickly, which helps its function of being the carrier for fragrance oils. It also blends very easily with essential oils and fragrance oils”.
If you’ll cast your mind back to GCSE Chemistry, you’ll remember that oil and water don’t mix so in order to bring out the aromas from the essential oils, you need a solvent that will. It’s also good for dilution, a carrier to transport the notes from bottle to skin or air and helps to maintain its freshness so that every spritz reflects the evolution of the opening to base notes as effectively as the very first.
However, as explained by Mastenbroek, “By its nature alcohol is a volatile organic compound, and you could argue that spraying this into the atmosphere is not helpful to the environment, even if it’s in tiny amounts each time”. There are not just environmental concerns either, there’s the matter of personal preferences too. “People may prefer a ‘gentler’ diffusion of the fragrance rather than with alcohol, which can create a rather powerful sudden spray of fragrance”, she reveals as well as there being religious reasons to consider. “That’s why in some regions you won’t see these fragrances sold because alcohol itself is also banned”.
For those looking for a more subtle scenting experience or one that’s kinder on delicate skin, perfume oils, rollerballs, solid and water-based aromas have become hugely popular. Mastenbroek reveals that this emerging category of alcohol-free fragrance “uses a natural solvent such as coconut oil or almond oil as the carrier for the fragrance oils. The combination of the rollerball application, together with the natural solvent carrier, results in a more gentle fragrance experience. Some people feel this is more personal, and less intrusive on others”.
These can be equally as long-lasting just more softened but if staying power is a concern, Mastenbroek concludes that you should “layer a fragrance on top of a moisturiser or even a Vaseline, because this can help lock the fragrance oils into the skin”. Try also to avoid rubbing your wrists together as this will dull down the aroma.
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Dior J’adore Parfum d’eau
The luxury fashion house has redefined the traditional method of fragrance creation by switching out the traditional alcohol stalwart and replacing it with water. “A concentration of water and flowers” explains the brand, detailing the minimal ingredients used to create the fresh, perennially-spring scent.
The application process feels like a gentle, subtle treat to the senses as a lightweight mist, before reaching the skin and revealing the bouquet of neroli, jasmine sambac and Chinese magnolia. The combination of white flowers is presented in an opalescent white bottle adorned with gold detailing as is the brand’s signature.
Buy now £97.00, Dior
Glossier You Perfume Solid
The cult label has reinvented its beloved ‘You’ perfume as a solid variation. The weighted compact is offered in Glossier’s instantly recognisable pale pink hue that swivels to reveal the fragrance within.
Like the brand’s spray scent, the solid option is designed to create a unique aroma for each individual user as it adapts to your skin. It combines ambrette, ambrox, musk, iris root and pink pepper in an anhydrous formula. Believe the hype, this really is one of the best.
Buy now £30.00, Glossier
Diptyque Solid Perfume Philosykos
The French label’s unisex Philosykos perfume was designed as an ode to the fig tree and is nothing short of a masterful, iconic scent. One of Diptyque’s signature fragrances, it is available as a solid perfume that is offered in a magnetic closure with the house’s iconic lettering design and the stunning scene of the plant that is at its heart. It feels lovely in hand, too.
Buy now £50.00, Space NK
Le Labo Labdanum 18 Liquid Balm Rollerball
If you’re looking to break away from the ubiquitous Santal 33 or Another 17 aromas, Labdanum 18 deserves your attention. While amber and musk are the dominating notes in this scent, it remains more subtle than others in the collection, while offering a warming, cosy feeling that is nostalgic and ideal for the colder weather.
It is presented as a rollerball, free from any alcohol and ready to go for your next far-flung tropical exploration or city break in its travel-ready form.
Buy now £66.00, John Lewis
Byredo Rose of No Man’s Land Roll-on Perfumed Oil
You will be able to find your favourite Byredo fragrance as a perfume oil with an alcohol-free composition that makes it suitable for almost all skin types. The brand is known for its heady, seductive concoctions so this is a way to enjoy them in a gentler way for those who find the eau de parfum too intense.
Rose of No Man’s Land is a personal favourite, giving a more interesting and dynamic twist on rose aromas that can be overwhelmingly powdery. It was created as a tribute to the nurses of World War I mirroring their selflessness and compassion with a soothing blend that is empowering. The sweet floral scent is made up of raspberry blossom, lightly spiced pink pepper and woody papyrus.
Buy now £52.00, Liberty
The Body Shop White Musk Perfume Oil
This is the most popular fragrance in The Body Shop’s collection and is an iconic and enduring scent that transcends trends. It is generally light and fresh but made all the more so by this perfume oil that forgoes the traditional alcohol content. What you will find remains is the combination of lily of the valley, jasmine and musk that give it the fragrant floral aroma. The lasting power is enhanced and it’s ready for travel.
Buy now £14.98, Amazon
Buly 1803 Eau Triple Damask Rose eau de parfum 75ml
Officine Universelle Buly has a long history that dates back to 1803 but don’t for one minute think that stops the brand from constantly innovating. The label, known for its Paris establishment on the legendary rue Saint-Honoré has created a fragrance collection without alcohol.
Instead, the brand has demonstrated its prowess by creating six scents with water in beautifully adorned white opaline bottles. The aromas range from English Honey and Scottish Lichen to Mexican Tuberose and Peruvian Heliotrope as well as the one pictured Damask Rose. The aromas are soft, balanced and unisex.
Buy now £156.00, Selfridges
