Dinah Washington had it right when she belted out, ‘What a difference a day makes.’ Over the past four days, I walked more than 55km, braved cliff-adjacent mudslides, slept under the stars and skipped showering in the quest to conquer Machu Picchu. Fast-forward 24 hours and I’m aboard South America’s first and finest luxury sleeper train with a Pisco Sour permanently glued to my hand.
Peru might be most famous for its Wonder of the World, but it has another ace up its sleeve. Belmond’s Andean Explorer contradicts the typical association of trains as slow travel, serving up a jam-packed schedule filled with exploration and gastronomic delights — all at altitudes reaching 4,200m.
Over the two-night Peruvian highlands route, I am transported from Cusco to Arequipa via Lake Titicaca in the utmost luxury. This is no ordinary backpacker trail. As you arrive in Cusco, it is important to acclimatise to the altitude and where better than in one of two Belmond hotels in the bustling Inca capital. I spent three nights ahead of the Salkantay Trek at Monasterio, a 16th-century former monastery pitched five minutes from the touristic centre. Yet, when sipping on Coca tea underneath the cedarwood tree in the courtyard, you feel a world away. From the baroque art to the candlelit chapel, the hotel demonstrates Belmond’s masterful respect for its setting, while still imbuing a luxury feel.
We board the train at 11am and guests gather in the train’s Piano Bar; the excitement is palpable. Around 50 passengers are here, including retirees — both the septuagenarian type and newly minted near-billionaires in their early 30s who have exchanged the nine-to-five for full-time fun, as well as families with older children. It’s a hugely social experience. You dine side by side with the eclectic mix of well-heeled, discerning travellers and gossip spreads down the train like wildfire.
We doze off in one of three room types where only the well-organised are treated to the rarer double bed suites. The rest of us make do in the twins and bunk beds and while spacious is not the word, the room feels neither cramped nor claustrophobic. Traversing the train is a lengthy pursuit negotiating narrow corridors while on the move. Among the cars are two bars and the Picalor spa cabin offering massages (much appreciated after the recent trek).
The festivities start in fine form. Lunch is served to the soundtrack of a saxophonist playing Abba’s ‘Dancing Queen’ and with the Pisco flowing, we can’t help but get up and dance. This sets the tone for the party vibe that follows. Meals go hand in hand with live music, from a pianist tickling the ivories at cocktail hour to a violinist doing the unthinkable: getting me to hum along to Coldplay. On the final evening, a spontaneous sing-along with the onboard guitarist turns the observation deck to karaoke on wheels as we drink our way through never-ending tequila.
Shots aside, there are culturally rich trips including to the magical floating Uros Islands. We visit Inca ruins, watch the sunrise over Lake Titicaca and stargazing offers a stellar view of the constellations, namely the Southern Cross. The views are ever-changing and especially breathtaking on the final day when we trundle through Colca Canyon with its active volcanoes and snow-tipped peaks.
With post-train blues impending, I head off to Belmond’s Las Casitas, a remote hideaway in the heart of the canyon that is well worth the early departure from the Explorer. Down a cobbled street lined with prickly pear cacti, the secluded 20-room escape reveals itself with a welcoming committee of horses, alpacas and llamas. As part of the breakfast at Tapay experience, I feasted on a multi-course spread as condors soared over Colca Valley. A true taste of the high life.
