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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Vicky Jessop

Barbados travel guide: what to eat, drink and do on the Caribbean island

Tourists looking to soak up some winter sun can’t go far wrong with Barbados. The island is rightly famed for its spun-sugar beaches, its gorgeous blue seas and its laid-back way of life (as well as being the birthplace of singer Rihanna), but head a little off the beaten track and you’ll also discover a thriving surf community, a rugged coastline and some truly world-class food.

Here’s our guide for what to do to get the most out of a Christmas getaway.

Drink

A rum shop (Visit Barbados)

Rum is more than Barbados’ national drink: it’s almost a national religion. The interior of the island is littered with small rum shops, which open in the afternoon to offer locals and curious tourists drams of the good stuff. Mount Gay is the island’s most famous brand, and for fans, a trip to the Mount Gay distillery on the outskirts of Bridgetown is a must.

Costing 25SD (Barbados dollars; £10) a person, the experience includes a talk about the history of the island, a tasting tour of the entire Mount Gay rum collection and a complimentary rum punch to boot.

For those wanting a more low-key experience, the beach bars littering the island’s beautiful west side (such as Tiki Bar on Rockley Beach) sell Barbados’ notoriously strong and delicious rum punch: perfect for sipping on while watching the sun go down over the sea. Or if you want that extra wow factor, then the Cliff Bistro offers spectacular cliffside views of the tranquil Caribbean Sea (and dinner, if the mood strikes).

Eat

Being an island, you’d expect Barbados to serve up some excellent seafood. And oh boy, it does – if you know where to go. In addition to the local fish markets in places like Speightstown (which serves fish fresh from the sea) there are countless options for those in need of a foodie fix.

The Fish Pot (The Fish Pot)

Top of the list for good food has to be Sea Shed near Holetown, where you can chow down on lobster, tuna and grilled market fish while the Caribbean Sea laps metres away from your feet. It’s chic, the service is immaculate and it’s always busy. Be warned, though, it’s pricey: a meal for two will set you back around 350BSD, or £145.

If that hasn’t scratched your itch, then try The Fish Pot, a repurposed 17th century fort situated in the quiet fishing village of St Lucy. It’s renowned as one of the best restaurants on the island and focusses on creating simple food and a relaxed atmosphere, with the obligatory good fish and lashings of Australian wine (the owner is Australian).

For people wanting to sample some Bajan cuisine on the cheap, a visit to Cuz’s Fish Stand to try the island’s iconic fish cutters is a must. What’s a fish cutter? It’s a fried flying fish steak slapped between two slices of salt bread. Served out of a shed next to Pebbles Beach, it’s a local hotspot – and having your 10BSD (£4) cutter with lashings of Bajan hot sauce (a spicy, fruity chutney) on top is practically obligatory.

And of course, for fish cooked the local way, there’s always Oistin’s Fish Fry (more on that below).

Do

Oistin’s Fish Fry (Visit Barbados)

Top for the list for any sightseeing experience has to be Oistin’s Fish Fry. Taking place every Friday evening at Oistin’s Beach (south of Bridgetown), tourists and locals alike gather in the evening for a party like no other.

Featuring around fifty stalls, all of which have their own unique (and closely guarded) recipes for cooking fish fresh out of the ocean, as well as rum punch by the bucketload, the evening usually closes with a dance and singalong. Head there early to secure your seat, as queues for tables and food get long very quickly.

Slightly up the coast near Pebbles Beach is something for the early birds: at 6am (around sunrise) every morning, trainers from the local racetrack takes their horses out for a dawn swim. If you play your cards right, you might even be able to swim with them – and the groomers are often happy to pose for photos too.

Of course, the main draw for tourists – especially sun-starved Brits — is the island’s beaches, and to that end most of the island’s idyllic west coast offers white sands to relax on. All of Barbados’ beaches are public, so take your pick: some of the best include Accra, Gibbs, Miami, Enterprise and Crane Bay.

Many of the island’s beaches also play host to Barbados’ famous turtles, and multiple tours will take you out for a day of snorkelling and turtle-spotting – though keep in mind they’re more likely to be around during nesting season, which falls between May and October.

Enterprise Beach (Luca Bertalli)

Barbados also has a reputation for being something of a surf mecca, if you know where to look. The fishing village of Bathsheba on the island’s rugged east coast has become a haven for surfers and nature lovers, and any tourist who makes the trip there today will be rewarded with an entirely different side to the island: quiet, local, and home to some of the best waves on the island.

Stay

Given Barbados’ reputation for sun and sea, it’s hardly surprising that the island is a firm favourite with celebrities and jet-setters — which in turn means both high prices and beautiful hotels.

One of the most prominent is Colony Club. Situated on one of Barbado’s most gorgeous white-sand beaches, this sprawling hotel encompasses multiple pools, beautiful gardens, several restaurants and 96 rooms, plus watersports galore. Rooms start at around £450 a night, and if you’re looking for somewhere to have a sundowner, the hotel’s beachside bar looks directly out onto white-sand beaches and sea.

Waves Hotel & Spa (Waves Hotel by Elegant Hotels)

That said, those looking for good vibes can’t go far wrong with Waves Hotel & Spa. Located halfway down the island’s west coast, Waves offers a spa, two different restaurants and beautiful views over the ocean, complete with attentive staff who are always on hand to whip up a mint daiquiri or your cocktail of choice. It’s the ultimate wellness destination — and an all-inclusive week-long stay for two will cost around £3,320 each.

And if what takes your fancy is a nice boutique hotel, Barbados has those in spades. One of the best has to be The Lone Star. Situated on the road between Speightstown and Holetown on the idyllic west coast, it boasts private balconies, direct access to the beach and even a rather excellent restaurant that serves up everything from steak to curry-dressed white crab. Prices vary from £200 to over £1000, depending on the room and time of year.

Getting there

Flying to Barbados is best done with either British Airways or Virgin Atlantic.

British Airways flies direct from London Gatwick to Grantley Adams International Airport in Bridgetown from £507; britishairways.com

Virgin Atlantic flies direct from London Heathrow to Grantley Adams International from £512; virginatlantic.com

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