Where ?
The Baia del Sole resort lies in a secluded spot by the sea, a short ride down the coast from the historic town of Tropea, in the region of Calabria. As with many areas of the Italian south, which still struggles with unemployment and poverty, it not the most heralded within the nation – indeed it is famously looked down upon by northern Italians – but visitors don’t need to get involved in all that. Instead, after a visit here, it’s impossible to see it as anything other than spectacularly beautiful, very friendly and full of character. It is the kind of place where absolute gems can be found that don’t cost the earth; Baia del Sole being a prime example.
Style
This is a four-star resort that revolves around tranquillity, so think palm trees, grassy expanses, and a traditional restaurant overlooking the sea. Yet there’s also a modernist edge here, with the family rooms being a bold pop-art delight, a funky pool and a village-y series of activity areas including a gym and work-out studio, kids’ club area, and every parents’ favourite: a chic bar area for cocktails and local wine (and it must be local wine, see below).
Food & Drink
Breakfast and dinner are included (you can have swap dinner for lunch, in case you want to head out on the evening) and both count as huge draws to this resort. Breakfast is a buffet that quickly became the highlight of the day as it blew my kids’ minds: “so, an omelette, plus a pain au chocolate, plus hot chocolate plus cake?” Fruit is also available for better cared-for children.
As for dinner, well there was so much variety to try each evening over four courses that it was always an adventure in local cuisine. Personal favourites included the Panciotto of fresh pasta stuffed with salt cod and bergamot on red onion of Tropea – this latter is a big deal around here; onions so sweet you can eat them like apples – and the Swordfish and Mazara red prawn roulade. The kids menu was pasta and burger focused, which was exactly the requirement, and extra points for the amazing and personalised birthday cake they made for my son’s 11th birthday.
Wine-wise, we discovered one particular Calabrian rosé – I say ‘discovered’, actually, and brilliantly, the staff do steer you solidly away from the Italian wine section to the specifically Calabrian wine section of the menu – a Spadafora Rosapina, and stuck with it, instantly hooked on its melon-y softness. Pre-dinner world-beating martinis watching the sunset fall over the nearby volcano was another must.
Facilities
Most of the action takes place at the main buildings overlooking the sea, with that fantastic pool and bar, and then of course there is the beach itself, with sunloungers and bar service. Back on the resort, around the back of the bar is the gym/studio, and that kids’ club area which includes a playground, ping-pong table, with two tennis courts and football pitches next door. One of the benefits of an all-inclusive places is the feeling of community and safety, yet the seclusion and layout means there’s always plenty for the whole family to discover.
Let’s face it though, family holidays are all about the children, and the brilliant staff there had them involved alongside in everything from cookie decorating to nautical knot tying, which they thoroughly, perhaps surprisingly, enjoyed. My daughter was well looked after when my daughter banged her nose on a slide. Amazing what a bit of free ice cream can do.
Extracurricular
For those who can’t bear to leave Baia del Sole there are also boat tours out onto the water and into the caves from the beach, run by the resort partner Seasport.
But venturing out of the resort to visit Tropea, probably the most popular town on what is called “the coast of the Gods” is well worth it. Tropea was vote the most beautiful village in Italy in 2021 and has won further awards for its beach – the water is so clear and azure it really has to be seen to be believed. Legend has it that Hercules founded Tropea when he rested here after completed his Pillars, and was awarded a trophy; hence the name.
We booked a walking tour, which also gave us some further insight into some actual historical context. This spectacular place on the clifftops has seen a lot of action, with the architecture of its cathedrals showing visible signs of destruction and rebuilding, with the 12th century Norman monastery, the Duomo, showing some Gothic touches. The town once held a castle until is was destroyed in 1876 – some of the battlements are still standing – and essentially its fascinating to hear of the rise and fall and rise and fall again of one of the prettiest places on earth.
What’s particularly affecting is the sense of the religious fervour here, which means idols of the patron saint of Madonna of Romania are built into the walls of most streets, as well as occupying the hearts and minds of the residents. This is reflective of the drama that has accompanied life here, not just the wars and occupations but also the volcanoes! This is a town of passion and belief, when death can loom large.
Which room?
We were in a Family room, which was perfect for us, with a room at the front for parents and a room for the two children at the back. There was also a terrace out the front for the adults to drink while the children play out on the grass. Which is basically what holidays are all about.
Best for...
Fun and fine dining in a family idyll. Child-free couples will also enjoy, though it’s hard to recall those days.
Price
Rooms from £100 a night on a bed and breakfast basis; baiadelsole.com
