The trend headline from Milan fashion week may be that timeless chic is in after Giorgio Armani closed proceedings on Sunday afternoon, reminding us that he is fashion’s king of enduring style.
“Timelessness is an essential element of my aesthetic approach and a core value for my brand,” the designer said. “And that is not going to change any time soon.”
Many of Milan’s biggest names, including Gucci, Ferragamo and Dolce & Gabbana, also made a point – and a successful one – of mining their archives this season. For Armani, his velvet boleros, pin-tucked trousers and sequined tunics celebrated the known, with suede bomber jackets and a chunky wool anorak giving a twist of new silhouettes for his eponymous brand.
One has to presume that the designer unwittingly referenced Rihanna’s onstage makeup check as she headlined the recent Super Bowl half-time show when he sent the last model down the runway admiring herself in the reflection of her compact. While celebrities on the runway and shock tactics may work for other brands, Armani is resolute that his clothes do the talking.
“Like anybody else, I do feel the pressure but at the same time I think that my strength comes from my firm decision to be independent, to follow my instinct, and ultimately to play by my own rules,” said the 88-year-old. “So while others may decide to opt for celebrity stunts, I prefer to go my own way. This is what brought me here and after almost 50 years I don’t think this will change because of the external pressure. I know it’s a tough stance, but I don’t know any other way.”
Earlier in the day, Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi staged his first show in Europe with the support of Dolce & Gabbana. A favourite of Sam Smith, Lady Gaga and Björk, Koizumi delivered embroidered ribbon corsets in the traditional colour combinations of kimonos, and a rainbow-riot of his signature elaborate smocked dresses, each of which took a week to be made by hand.
Self-trained Koizumi, a former costume designer, first piqued the interest of the fashion industry when the stylist Katie Grand discovered him on Instagram and he garnered support from industry veterans Marc Jacobs and John Galliano. The invitation from Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana allowed him to expand his repertoire of fabrics.
“I don’t normally use silk-organza because it’s expensive,” he said. “[But] it’s not only the budget that is so helpful, but working with great designers who encourage me a lot and push me to make my original stuff even better.”
