Better start practising your serve — summer 2024 looks set to be defined by tennis. The three-month countdown to Wimbledon is on, racket-romp Challengers arrives in cinemas tomorrow, and everyone chic has already begun channelling the Hurlingham mummies nursing their post match glass of AIX rosé (Whispering Angel, totally passé) while wearing white-pleated skirts and a Ralph Lauren cable knit tied expertly around the neck.
The biggest advert for embracing all things preppy has been Zendaya, who stars in Luca Guadagnino’s film as a former tennis prodigy in a coaching love-triangle with two Federer wannabes (Josh O’Connor and Mike Faist). During the press tour, she has committed — with Margot Robbie’s Barbie enthusiasm — to on-court theme outfits. Big hitters have counted a tennis-green ball gown (complete with actual tennis ball) by Celia Kritharioti at the Los Angeles premiere; a chequered, green SS13 Louis Vuitton look designed by Marc Jacobs during the photocall in Paris; and a custom pleated Thom Browne dress, complete with athletic mesh inserts and tennis racket embroidery, for the UK premiere. The actual tennis balls on her Loewe heels for a photocall in Rome were a step far, but it’s all ever so SW19.
“Method dressing” (Hollywood’s recent penchant whereby stars dress in the style of their on-screen character for red carpets) is troubling for trends, of course. Are we all really going to start wearing tennis kits because Zendaya looks so fabulous doing it? There’s no doubt the glamazon would look just as good (if her stylist, Law Roach, had anything to do with it) dressed as a hen for a live action remake of Chicken Run, and we wouldn’t go there. Would we?
But the onset of preppiness has deeper roots than her, and interest is booming internet-wide. Searches for “preppy tennis outfit” are up 300 per cent and “vintage tennis outfit female” up 100 per cent in the last three months, as per research by Karen Millen. Trend forecaster WGSN has found fashion items tagged “tennis” for sale are up seven per cent year-on-year, as well. The question is, then, how to pull sporty off without looking like you’re playing a match.
According to Karen Clarkson, stylist and owner of Portobello Road’s smart vintage emporium Found And Vision, the first step is perfecting the old-school look. “My top tip is to search eBay, Vinted and Depop for vintage Fred Perry, Lacoste, Le Coq Sportif and other sports brands. If you’re lucky enough to find some original Sixties and Seventies kit, then its game, set and match,” she says.
Old Lacoste polos are a staple (first designed in 1933, their timelessness is proven by still looking great, modelled by Novak Djokovic in its latest campaign), while “a favourite in my wardrobe is a Seventies cotton pleated Fred Perry skirt — I’m wearing it with an ivory Extreme Cashmere sweater until the temperature rises,” explains Clarkson. “Once the sun’s out, a white T-shirt, tanned legs and a diamond tennis bracelet are all that’s needed.”
As for footwear, Depop experts suggest Adidas’s Stan Smith tennis shoe “stands to be next in-line for a popular revival”, following the Sambas boom, with searches up 92 per cent on the platform. Slazenger is also a contender for best sporty footwear, with searches up 93 per cent. But Clarkson suggests stepping things up Zendaya-style, who is rarely seen without her white pair of red-bottom Christian Louboutin stilettos. “I avoid trainers and pair with a low heeled pump or ballet shoe — it’s giving more ‘off-duty’ grand slam star, rather than just stepped off centre court,” she says.
Fashion brands have rushed to get in the game. By way of campaigns, Hobbs, Kim Kardashian’s Skims and Fila (featuring Hailey Bieber looking sultry with an old racket) have all taken to tennis-themed spring campaigns. Varley, the athleisure/fashion brand, has just expanded its “club collection” — all pleat skirts, piqué polos, caps and knits. Meanwhile Mango has launched a capsule “Mango Tennis club” collection, complete with skorts, shorts and racquet-embroidered, navy cable knit sleeveless vests. Even more on the nose is Alex Eagle’s white T-shirt which simply reads “TENNIS”.
Luxury brands are banking on the world’s best players to amp up their credentials: Gucci tapped Jannik Sinner and hosted a swanky dinner for him during Wimbledon last year, Emma Raducanu is a Dior girl and jetted to their Cruise 2024 Mexico fashion show, while Carlos Alcaraz is the face of Louis Vuitton’s men’s SS24 collection.
Much can be gained in glancing off court for inspiration, too. Umpire-chic? It’s a thing. Think navy blazers with gold buttons (Gant do a great one) and blue and white striped shirts (With Nothing Underneath is the go-to for fashion editors, while John Lewis sell a serviceable version from KAFFE) paired with a smart pair of cream chinos or pleated Bermuda shorts.
And as for the fans, Wimbledon’s bleachers are a go-to on freshening up the Sloane-ranger look. Last year, Emma Corrin rocked a beige linen short suit and tie, Yasmin Finney opted for a knit short, bralette and oversized blazer, while Lila Moss smartened up a blue slip with a cable Ralph sweater. It’s a style ace.
JOIN THE CLUB: GET THE SW19 LOOK OFF-COURT
Jane Court Dress 28’’, £105, uk.varley.com
Regular Fit Club Blazer, £350, gant.co.uk
Kaffe, Dabra Button Up Casual Fit Shirt, £49.99, johnlewis.com
Millie Front Pleat Tailored Shorts, £118, reiss.com
Stan Smith shoes, £85, adidas.co.uk
Slim Fit Mesh Polo Shirt, £105, ralphlauren.co.uk
Emily Crystal Tennis Bracelet, £99, swarovski.com
D-Smash Paris Allover Visor, £680, dior.com
ANYDAY Stripe V-Neck Jumper, £32, johnlewis.com
Tennis t-shirt, £30, alexeagle.com
