At Vivienne Westwood’s fall show Saturday, Andreas Kronthaler sent a clear message: rebellion is alive and well. The collection, staged at the Pavillon Cambon, was a riot of irreverence and refinement, merging razor-sharp tailoring with Westwood’s signature sense of mischief.
“There’s nothing more sexy than a suit,” the show notes declared, and Kronthaler took that mantra to heart. Power suiting dominated — oversized blazers draped over silken shirts, trousers slashed into asymmetrical skirts, and trench coats dialed up to near-operatic proportions. A deep navy double-breasted coat, cinched tightly at the waist and paired with a towering felt hat, felt like a playful nod to British aristocracy — if the aristocracy had a punk streak and a wicked sense of humor.
Texture was another star of the show. Chunky winter coats in rough wools clashed beautifully with shimmering metallic hoods and speckled knitwear, while velvet and tulle gowns exaggerated the body with bold padding at the hips and shoulders. Accessories veered into pure Westwood fantasy — furry heels, deliberately clashing socks, and a gilded birdcage handbag, equal parts opulent and ironic.
The collection also served as a personal tribute. Marking his 30 years in London, Kronthaler wove in subtle references to the city’s eclectic energy, infusing the lineup with a mix of streetwise edge and historic grandeur. As the final model exited, he stepped onto the runway, bouquet in hand, and flung flowers into the crowd, a celebratory gesture that felt as spontaneous and theatrical as the clothes themselves.
Vivienne Westwood’s legacy has always been about challenging expectations. Under Kronthaler, that defiant spirit remains, recharged with a fresh, fearless sense of drama.
