From beautiful countryside to historic chateaux, and sprawling vineyards to markets selling local delicacies, there’s plenty to explore and enjoy in the Atlantic Loire valley. Wondering where to start? Here are our tips for a week in a region that takes in the cities of Nantes, Saumur, Le Mans, Angers and La Baule, and covers the five departments of Loire Atlantique, Anjou, Mayenne, Sarthe and Vendée.
Outdoor activities
Atlantic Loire valley’s forests, riverbanks and hillsides make it the perfect setting for holiday activities, and it’s a popular destination for cyclists, hikers and anyone wanting to take to the water. As such, there are more than 400 nautical centres on the Loire and its tributaries, making it great for canoeing, kayaking and boat hire, or simply a pleasant walk by the water.
The valley’s riverbanks are a popular destination for cyclists
Vent d’Soulair organises fishing trips in a traditional toue cabanée (fishing boat), while Rêves de Loire et d’Ailleurs takes small groups out on its toue sablière for a cruise and birdwatching on the river’s sandbanks.
For young explorers, there are plenty of places for accrobranche (treetop adventure courses), such as Monkey Forest north of Saint-Nazaire or O’Gliss Park’s O’Fun Park in Vendée. The Forest of Bercé is a more serene place for a walk among the giant oak trees, and there are botanical gardens at the Chateau du Pin, in Champtocé-sur-Loire, and the Jardin des Plantes d’Angers, the latter’s footpaths, waterfalls and statues giving it a serene atmosphere.
The region’s forests offer many opportunities for accrobranche. Photograph: Alamy
Markets and gastronomy
Nantes’ Talensac market has been trading since 1937 and is open every morning except Monday, selling a huge range of local produce from the Loire and Vendée. You’ll find stacks of oysters, racks of the local muscadet wine, Guérande salt and charcuterie, with the scent of curé nantais cheese and strawberries filling the air. Every Wednesday, the city’s Place de la Bourse is filled with stalls selling organic produce.
Markets throughout the area are piled high with local produce. Photographs: Alamy
Saumur, a 90-minute drive eastwards, has a huge Saturday morning market on its Place de la République, which sells local specialities such as fouées – round rolls stuffed with white beans, rillettes or cheese, pommes tapées (dried apples hammered flat), and dishes of traditional champignons (mushrooms filled with garlic, goat’s cheese and parsley).
Other great fresh-produce markets can be found in Saint-Nazaire and in Angers, home to le grand marché.
Saumur, home to a thriving weekly market. Photograph: Alamy
Wine and vineyards
The Loire valley is one of the top wine regions in France and it’s easy to visit one of the many vineyards or town-based cellars for a tasting. Lesser-known Fiefs Vendéens wines are produced nearer the coast where the climate is more lively, while farther inland are the celebrated chenin blancs from Saumur and Anjou, and the ever-popular Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine.
Among the vineyards open for tours and tastings is Domaine du Closel at the Château des Vaults (bottom). Photographs: Alice Gregoire; Alamy
In Saint-Fiacre, the Château du Coing is open for visits and muscadet tastings from the mother-and-daughter team of Véronique and Aurore Günther-Chéreau. The estate is steeped in history – wine has been produced at the confluence of the two rivers Sèvre and Maine since the 15th century.
Tastings of the organic wines from Domaine du Closel at the Château des Vaults, in Savennières, can be followed by a walk in the beautiful chateau grounds. For sparkling wine, Saumur’s house of Veuve Amiot was founded in 1884 and has 3.5 miles of underground wine caves (cellars). Visitors can take a tour of the caves, watch the production and bottling process and enjoy a glass of Saumur Brut or Crémant de Loire in the tasting room.
Must-see events
Combining jazz music and boating, the Rendez-vous de l’Erdre festival at the end of August offers a week of free concerts along the River Erdre and at multiple locations on the canal between Nantes and Brest. For something more physical, the 21st edition of the Foulées du Saumur-Champigny trail races begins in the town of Varrains on 8 September. Or stand and watch the start of the Vendée Globe – the round-the-world sailing race – from Les Sables d’Olonne on 10 November.
The Rendez-vous de l’Erdre festival takes place at multiple locations between Nantes and Brest. Photograph: Alamy
Pay a visit to the elite equestrian centre of Cadre noir de Saumur, founded in 1815, where you can take a tour of the prestigious riding school and watch the celebrated riding masters. The centre has evening horsemanship galas throughout the season, including on 20, 21 and 22 December. For more spectacular shows, visit the vast Puy du Fou in Vendée, an hour from Nantes, Angers and Les Sables d’Olonne, and voted the best theme park in the world.
The Cadre noir de Saumur, an elite equestrian centre, offers tours and demonstrations
Historical chateaux
The Loire has always been associated with sumptuous chateaux and the Atlantic stretch of the valley is no different. The 15th-century Château des ducs de Bretagne dominates Nantes with its fortified ramparts. The magnificent chateau on Angers’ riverbank, home to the Unesco listed late-14th-century Apocalypse Tapestry, was restored as a powerful fortress by Catherine de Medici, the queen of France from 1547 to 1559.
The Château des ducs de Bretagne (top); the Château de Montgeoffroy (below). Photographs: Alamy
A short drive away is the magnificent, symmetrical 18th-century Château de Montgeoffroy, which has a huge star-shaped park – one of the few remaining in France. Travel some 60 miles on to the Château de Tiffauges in Vendée, and you’ll find the region’s most characterful medieval castle, which puts on shows and entertainment for visitors.
A jousting tournament at the Château de Tiffauges. Photograph: Alamy
Antique hunting
Almost every village in the region has an antiques emporium, but at La-Chartre-sur-le-Loir, in Sarthe, there are more than a dozen antique shops selling everything from lace napkins and vesta cases to monogrammed nightgowns.
At La Maison Courtin, the shop owner has recreated a cabinet de curiosités and three stores, or museum-boutiques, from the 1920s; one for artist’s materials, one for hats, and another for brushes. For more details about this, and other sights and experiences in the area, contact the Vallée du Loir tourist office.
Antique shops and brocante markets are found in almost every town and village. Photographs: Alamy
Meanwhile, Nantes’ Place Viarme (every Saturday morning), and Angers’ Rue Toussaint (the first Sunday of the month), are filled with brocante stalls – great places to find a Napoleonic telescope, vintage glassware, or some nautical curios.
Remarkable sites
The tiny village of Rochemenier, just a short trip from Saumur, is home to an entire underground settlement where farms have been dug out of the rock alongside troglodyte dwellings, a chapel, stables, chicken houses, and a maze of tunnels carved within the caves.
The village of Rochemenier (top); the Musée Robert Tatin (below). Photographs: Alamy
Even more bizarre is the Mayenne’s Musée Robert Tatin, a surreal but mesmerising construction that took artist Robert Tatin 22 years to complete. The building has giant Polynesian, Aztec, historical and dream-inspired sculptures and there’s also a meditation garden and butterfly park.
Stay somewhere special
Book a night at the Château de l’Epinay in Saint-Georges-sur-Loire, a castle near Angers whose history dates back to the 12th century and is now transformed into a hotel, spa and restaurant. Or really splash out and stay at the 18th-century Château du Grand Lucé, south-east of Le Mans, to experience the grandeur of French aristocratic living.
Stay in luxury at the Château de l’Epinay
Getting to the Atlantic Loire valley
The best way to visit Atlantic Loire valley is in the comfort of your own car, sailing to France with Brittany Ferries. It’s an easy drive from all arrival ports and just two hours from St Malo. Another advantage is that your holiday begins the moment you step onboard your ferry, with talented French chefs serving French and international cuisine in the restaurants. As part of the award-winning service, there are cabins to unwind in and an onboard spa, not to mention lots of activities to keep the kids entertained – from cinema showings to live performances. You’ll wake up feeling refreshed from your overnight crossing and can enjoy breakfast onboard before you set off to explore.
Travelling with your own car means you can can pick up a few curiosities and antiques (small), or pack a case of wine or two from your favourite vineyard. You can also make your own adventure by bringing your bikes or water-sport equipment, or jump into some ready-made action by driving to Puy du Fou. Its 6,000 seat Roman coliseum puts on a spectacular show with gladiators and chariots, and there’s even a Viking battle, featuring a longship, that will keep you on the edge of your seats.
Talking of sailing vessels, all you need to do is book your own transport with Brittany Ferries, where it’s also easy to combine your travel with accommodation, ranging from charming gites and cottages to hotels and campsites.
Find out even more about great things to do in the Atlantic Loire Valley – and book your holiday crossing with Brittany Ferries. Sail to France from just £103 one-way for a car and two passengers*
*Available on selected daytime sailings throughout September and October
