Given my restaurants 40 Dean Street and 64 Old Compton Street are both Italian, I admit neither might be the first place anyone would turn to for Burns Night, a celebration of the Scotland’s roguish national poet. But I’m very fond of Scotland, have spent wonderful times there, and count many Scots as dear friends.
More to the point, I don’t always fancy spending January 25 ploughing through the full works of haggis with neeps and tatties. Instead, I like to do the below — it’s as rich and warming as you can imagine, and the spice and pepper of the haggis gives the ragù this startling depth, and a bit of a kick. You might call it a hagù. Or maybe not.
With a dish as bold as this, it’s best with a big bold glass of red — Chianti never fails — or a good glass of Scotch whisky (though try something on the lighter, less peated side, else it’ll overpower things). Or, mix up a whisky cocktail — I love a Rob Roy, named for Rabbie Burns himself.
Ingredients
For the ragù
For serving
Method
- First prepare the haggis. Remove the casing and then crumble the haggis into chunks to mimic the texture of mince and set aside.
- When you're ready to cook, heat some olive oil in a large pot. Fry the pancetta until crispy, then set aside.
- Add the crumbled haggis to the pot and cook until lightly browned. Remove and set aside with the pancetta.
- Next, make the soffritto. In the same pot, soften your chopped carrots, celery, and onion for about 10 minutes, then add the garlic for the final minute.
- Add in the tomato puree and let it fry for a 30 seconds to one minute.
- Now, return the pancetta and haggis to the pot, pour in the wine, and let it bubble away until reduced by half.
- Add the tomatoes and beef broth, bring to a boil, then lower the heat and let it simmer gently for about 2-2.5 hours (the longer, the better). Give it a stir now and then, but more broth if it's looking dry.
- When the meat is tender and the sauce is rich and thick, season to taste.
- Cook your pappardelle in salted water until al dente, then toss it with the rich and delicious ‘hagù’.
- Serve immediately, topped with a generous sprinkle of Pecorino and fresh basil. Pour yourself a large glass of red.
To commemorate Burns Night, 40 Dean Street is offering a special Scottish-Italian fusion dish with a special cocktail for £26.50. For more information and bookings, visit fortydeanstreet.com