Ever since Madonna was photographed riding her horse along its soft white sands, the natural beauty of Comporta with its laid-back beach vibe has gained a word-of-mouth reputation among international fashionistas. This is Portugal’s low-level, under the radar coast where a handful of elite hotels hide among the cork and umbrella pine trees.
The arrival of AlmaLusa Comporta, a sister hotel to AlmaLusa Baixa/Chiado in Lisbon, and the only hotel in the village of Comporta itself, opens up a stylish and affordable base in one of Europe’s fast developing destinations.
Where is it?
Eighty minutes south of Lisbon, the quiet, natural and largely unpopulated Comporta peninsula stretches for 13 miles with a heavenly sandy shoreline onto the Atlantic Sea. It was a place where residents of Lisbon and Setubal, the nearest large city, would head for a day on the beach but it was only nine years ago, when the first five-star hotel opened, Sublime Comporta, that an international audience began to take note. AlmaLusa Comporta’s location is notable because it is in the small but central village of Comporta itself, a 10–15-minute walk to the beach and with all the restaurants, bars and boutique shops on hand.
Style
AlmaLusa Comporta is a creative remodelling of a previous hotel, adding a Café del Mar style roof terrace and using a clever design of oversized lighting and rattan screens to give a restrained and up-to-date spin on a beach-friendly hotel. It rocks a ‘feet in the sand’, boho-chic style, a low-key yet elegant mix of natural fibres and vibrant colours with an emphasis on local art and craftsmanship – handsome Portuguese linens and fabrics, lots of wicker and weaved baskets, chunky stools and oversized loungers. Comporta is discreet – no big brand logos here – and AlmaLusa reflects that perfectly. It’s casual, comfortable and contemporary, encouraging you to put your feet up and feel at home.
Facilities
The hotel has a swimming pool, unheated, and a good roof top exercise area with some weights, kettle bells and mats. Yoga and fitness instructors are available for private lessons with indoor and outdoor spa treatments available – you need to book in advance. The hotel has a strong sustainability ethos, aiming to minimise its carbon footprint through clever water management and solar panel generators. The friendly staff are recruited, where possible, from the local area and the menus focus on local produce.
Extracurricular
Unlike Portugal’s Algarve, the Comporta peninsula is not a waterpark haven stuffed with endless sporting opportunities. Instead, it’s a place to decompress and take it easy and AlmaLusa Comporta’s location makes that a cinch. The wonderfully endless beach is a short walk away via a wooden boardwalk. The hotel can arrange horse riding, either along the beach a la Madonna or through the rice fields, and guests can sign up for wine tours and guided bird watching. The flat sandy landscape makes cycling a good option with or without e-bikes while on the water, there are surfing sessions and boat tours to spot bottle nosed dolphins. Thanks to its location in the middle of the village, all the restaurants and bars of Comporta are on the doorstep. Top tip: book a ‘stall’ at Cavalarico, a converted stables almost next door to AlmaLusa where the chef trained under Nuno Mendes (Mr Chiltern Firehouse) for the freshest octopus and outstanding tapas.
Food & drink
Breakfast is a well-stocked and appealing buffet of pastries – including plenty of glorious pastel de natas – meats and cheeses, yoghurts, nuts and fresh fruit with omelettes and eggs to order. The AlmaLusa Café, open all day, offers coffees, fruit drink, sandwiches and cakes and as the season gets underway there will be two restaurants: The Rooftop Bar serving light snacks, tapas and cocktails, perfect to watch the sunset, and the cosy basement Library Bar. Picnics are available to order for days out on the beach.
Which room?
The 22 rooms and 31 suites all have showers (no baths) and some outside space. Two deluxe suites have separate bedroom and living areas, but all the suites have good space, a good kitchenette and can sleep up to three adults or two adults and two children. Suite 003 was a favourite, with a courtyard garden with table, chairs and sun loungers.
Best for...
Anyone – families, couples, cycling groups or friends – looking for a charming, stylish and good value base either to explore a wonderful part of Portugal or get some restorative R&R. Families will love the proximity to the beach and nature lovers have plenty to explore.
Price
Rooms start from €160 per night and Suites from €250 per night, inclusive of breakfast; almalusahotels.com
