I'm pouring filtered water into my coffee pot in our Airbnb in Merida, Mexico, when my Dad returns from his walk, green oranges in a plastic bag.
"I just bought four oranges for 50 cents" he says, triumphantly.
My parents had grown tired of the cold Kentucky winter and decided, after nearly two years of being mostly homebound, to head south. This wasn't in the cards when I flew in from Newcastle on a one-way ticket, but everything is up in the air in 2022. It's a time to make plans day by day. The Morris family flew into Cancun on Saturday, January 15, direct from Nashville.
While I'm elated that my parents want to travel again, I'm confused at this development. I'm thinking the fact that I'm back in the northern hemisphere is encouraging a seize-the-moment attitude. Plus, they're triple vaccinated and figured Mexico is probably just as safe as Kentucky, at least when it comes to COVID.
We're spending a two-week trip in two places. First were a few nights on a little island off the coast of Cancun, Isla Mujeres (Women Island). Here you'll find few cars, heaps of motorcycles, golf carts and, oohhh lordy, tourists. Mexican trinkets and ponchos are for sale on every cobblestone street, and outdoor dining is plentiful.
In late 2011 I travelled around this part of the world with an ex. We visited this very island in fact. Bar the masks, the ferry ride over was almost an identical experience, where a man serenades passengers from the top deck with both his instruments and prerecorded music from blasting speakers, while ferry staff walk around selling beers and snacks. Once we arrived, I recalled several familiar landmarks and art, including multiple tributes to the island's namesake.
Our family stayed in the bustling northern part of the island. The Mexican winter climate is not too different from a standard summer day in Newcastle, although the humidity is more intense.
Back on the mainland, it was around three hours to drive from Cancun to Merida, our final destination. The Spanish colonial city has one million residents and is the capital of the state. Known for being safe for tourism, it also has more Australian reminders. A street performer played a didgeridoo on Friday night. The nicer part of town even has a Gloria Jean's.
We see far more masks here, where the tourists are fewer, compared to Isla Mujeres. Mexico made headlines worldwide for doing basically the opposite of Australia when it comes to border security. They never banned a country. They never required vaccines. They never require negative COVID tests. They never required quarantine upon arrival. The Washington Post describes their policy as "radically open".
Mexico is not a rich country, and parts of the country like the Yucatan Peninsula where I am, are dependent on tourism. But in 2020 I seethed reading about American tourists flocking to Mexico, helping flood Mexican hospitals with COVID. I sat trapped in Newcastle, thinking about selfish Americans prioritising margaritas over Mexicans. And yet, now, here I am, spreading my gringa germs.
Nearly half a million Mexicans have died of COVID. The borders have remained open, but this is not to say Mexico has not taken the virus seriously, Jose, from the local La Casita Spanish School tells me. The vaccine rate is good for Latin America (nearly 60 per cent). Masks are mandatory everywhere. People on motorcycles wear masks! Several staff at venues have taken my temperature, too.
Jose started his Spanish speaking school three years ago. He moved to Merida four years ago from the north of Mexico.
Jose explained that the entire country did "la cuarentena" in 2021, (similar to our lockdowns) and while his school has mostly remained open, the dynamics have changed. The classes have moved to both one-on-one and online. There are less social activities to go with it. Nevertheless he's happy to be teaching English in Merida. Yucatan is the safest state in Mexico. This is the only place where no one will come to his business and demand payment for "protection".
I walked lazily home from the school on Friday arvo. I contrasted the fancy built-up colonial city centre with the more dilapidated buildings on the outskirts. The lounging stray cats and dogs reminded me how far away I am from Newy. Then again frangipani trees, bright flowers and sunshine are everywhere. If I closed my eyes and breathed deeply, I could easily be strolling around the Carrington Mangroves loop.
