In big cities like Bangkok, the best places are usually spots that no one is talking about, yet. Epitomising the words “best places”, is Albricias at Chatrium Residence Sathon Bangkok on 291, Soi Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra.
Don’t let the decor fool you into believing this restaurant is just a basic hotel poolside restaurant. It is so much more. Serving the best of modern Spain, Albricias recently was awarded the “Restaurantes de España Award 2022” from the Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade (ICEX) an agency of the Ministry of Industry, Tourism and Trade, Spain.
Though the root of the menu lies in Spanish traditions, it takes on a modern twist with touches of Japanese. The first part of the menu is called “Pica Pica”, which in Catalonia means “a little bit from here, a little bit from there” and is for sharing. Though the menu has a lot of influences from the Catalan region, there are dishes from other regions, which have been given a modern twist using ingredients from other parts of the world.
The menu is extensive and if you’re overwhelmed, do what I did — I chose dishes that were marked “chef’s recommendation” and it was the best decision. Torched Japanese Hamachi (B620) is served with a Peruvian aji verde, guacamole, yuzu gel, olive oil, caviar and nori powder.
What goes best with this is the Catalan baby spinach salad (B620), which is plated rather unusually. The baby spinach is brought to the table, stacked, and has Joselito Gran Reserva pallets, La Antigua truffle manchego. The dressing is this delicious mix of aged balsamic vinaigrette with extra virgin Arbequina olive oil, organic honey and yuzu gel. I am not a salad person, yet I found myself going for seconds.
Another unusually plated dish but so heavenly to eat is the Pimentoes del piquillo (B620). Sweet baby capsicums from Lodosa, Spain, are stuffed with seafood like in San Sebastián-Donostia and is hidden under a duvet of black ink foam. Though this dish is not a feast for the eyes, it clearly is for the palate. Yum!
A dish that is a meal in itself, if you’re not sharing, is The Russian king (B620), where straw-fired king salmon is served warayaki style. It comes with Nikkei potato salad “Omoide Yokocho”-style (I love a good Japanese potato salad!), guacamole emulsion, yuzu gel, ikura, quail eggs, Kikos corn nuts (also a traditional Spanish snack) and crystal bread crostini. That’s a mouthful!
If I see octopus on the menu, you can bet it’s gonna be on my table. El pulpo Iberico (B1,120) is beautifully smoked and charcoal-grilled Spanish octopus, served with housemade salt-cured pancetta Iberico, leek, potato and Dijon mustard emulsion, pimientos de padron from Galica, black garlic aioli, pimenton de la Vera, shichimi togarashi and smoked Arbequina EVO.
The star of the meal at Albricias is Grandma Lola’s rice (B1,550). This is paella at it’s best with free-range organic chicken, botan ebi or sweet prawns and ika or squid from Kyushu, slow-cooked Iberico pork ribs, piquillo peppers from Lodosa and a Catalan picada sauce. This is the chef’s grandmother’s recipe and the paella serving can easily feed four to five people, depending on your appetite for destruction. This recipe came from whatever was leftover in grandma’s fridge and was made on a Thursday because Friday was shopping day, which is why it has a bit of everything: seafood and meat. All the ingredients are cooked with a sofrito and uses seafood and chicken stock. Picada is a Catalan preparation which is almonds, garlic, parsley, bread and chicken stock blended together and is used as a base to cook the rice.
If you still have place for dessert, I highly recommend the Churros con chocolate (B420), which are the best I’ve ever had in Bangkok! The churros are deliciously crisp on the outside, fluffy on the inside and are served with a chocolate-hazelnut praline sauce aka Ferrero Rocher style. If you can wait 30 minutes for dessert, order the Better than… (B420). Warm chocolate molten cake is served with a smooth and silky Tahitian vanilla ice cream.
Though if you’re not a chocolate person (yes, they do exist), try the La Torrija (B420), the chef’s favourite childhood dessert. This popular Spanish dessert is a cross between French toast and bread pudding and the serving is huge. Be warned. Housemade French brioche is soaked in milk and Tahitian vanilla. It is served with charcoal-grilled Granny Smith apples, cinnamon crumble and salted caramel ice cream. An absolute treat!
Several dishes are prepared tableside adding to the sense of theatre and the restaurant serves lunch and dinner. It also has an extensive Mediterranean drinks list to add to the sensorial journey. Visit chatrium.com/sathonbangkok/dining/albricias-restaurant.
