Since being named creative director of Alaïa in 2021, Belgian designer Pieter Mulier has sought to hone his conception of modern beauty – one which honours house founder Azzedine Alaïa’s vision of womanhood, while forging his own distinct path. This week, this evolution continues with the reopening of Alaïa’s New Bond Street flagship store in London, a harmonious matrimony between art and fashion.
The intimate space doubles as an art gallery, showcasing designs and artworks chosen to complement the house’s collections. Upon entering the flagship, the central staircase nods to Alaïa’s signature curved and crisp lines (Azzedine Alaïa was known as the ‘king of cling’, and Mulier’s own designs continue this fascination with form), while a glass showcase cabinet by Axel Einar Hjorth acts as a dramatic centrepiece at the entrance.
Alaïa's reopened New Bond Street flagship
Moving to the first floor, René Drouot offers comfortable seating with a sofa and four armchairs, offering a space for relaxation amid bouts of shopping. In a minimalistic manner, Plexiglas boxes reveal the new Alaïa shoes – one of Mulier’s most popular exports, particularly his ubiquitous glittering ballet pumps – the display taking on a gallery-esque quality.
Throughout the flagship, a curated selection of designs adorn the space. Marc Newson’s Pelota lamps warm up the neutral concrete floor, while chairs by Gerrit Rietveld, Gio Ponti and Franco Albini are accompanied by Philippe Starck stools and tables by Shiro Kuramata. In between Alaïa’s new collections, Mulier has carefully curated a selection of works from various artists. A picture by Sarah Lucas, portraits by Thomas Ruff, a large collage by Steven Shearer, and a painting by Sterling Ruby accessorise the store.
To enhance the flagship’s inviting feel, an industrially designed kitchen will open on the second floor. Accessed via the modern spiral staircase – which creates a natural fluidity throughout – this space encourages visitors to share encounters and finds, and harks back to Azzedine Alaïa’s own Paris kitchen, where he would memorably host gatherings of friends (among them artists, supermodels, fashion editors and more).
Azzedine Alaïa was himself an avid art lover, and was often considered a sculptor in cloth (an extraordinary exhibition in the Bernini-filled rooms of Rome’s Borghese Gallery in 2015 was titled ‘Azzedine Alaïa, Couture, Sculpture’). It's a desire for fluidity that Mulier has continued during his tenure. ‘I want to create clothes that carry this idea of a modern beauty, always in movement,’ he told Wallpaper’s Jack Moss in 2022.
139 New Bond Street, London.
