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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
Aidy Smith

Aidy’s drinks cabinets: The seven best rums to drink neat

No mixing allowed: Aidy Smith identifies the spirits best enjoyed by themselves

(Picture: Aidy Smith)

For too long, rum has been shackled to its wearisome dance partner Coca-Cola but, much like whisk(e)y, quality bottles of the spirit can easily (and should be) sipped solo to get the most out of them.

This sugarcane nectar has been around since the 1600s officially — likely a lot longer in actuality — and as a result, it has a fascinating history spanning all corners of the globe. There’s so much to explore, given how each country has developed its own unique spin based on the climate, sugarcane origins, and the bespoke craft forged over generations.

This list gives a little of that, but use it as a starting point — there’s an awful lot of the good stuff out there. These are my choices: it’s time to tackle rum, sipping style.

Dead Man’s Fingers Mango

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If you’re after something a little fun, take a look at this wonder. With dashes of both familiarity and creativity, it’s an excellent choice for those beginning their rum exploration. Produced a stone’s throw away from Bristol, Dead Man’s Fingers rum was originally made in St Ives, down in Cornwall. Expect a tropical bomb, dripping with sweet, luscious mangoes and a citrus tang. It makes a kick-ass mango daiquiri if you’re not in the mood for having it neat, and goes perfectly in a high ball serve with lemonade and a wedge of lime too.

£19.99, The Bottle Club

Étän Golden Spiced Rum

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This award-winning spiced rum is the spirited passion of five sisters, all of whom share a fondness towards their ancestral home in Cameroon. This cultural melting pot is home to a diverse collection of botanicals, five of which have made their way into this liquid: fever grass, orange peel, cassia, ginger and vanilla. It’s a bold testament to the powerhouse of female talent that continues to call this industry its home, and produce a cracking rum that holds itself solo, or works dashingly well as part of any rum cocktails. Take a whiff and the dried fig, frangipane and orange rind hit your nose before a sip evokes cinnamon, spiced clementines and a sweet black pepper kick on the finish. Super well balanced and full of life.

£41, Etan Rum

Plantation Jamaica 2007

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This 15-year-old sipping sensation undergoes a unique distillation process via the maker’s Vendome double-pot stills. It’s this method that imparts a distinctly lighter aromatic profile on the flavour than most Jamaican rums, making it ideal for drinking neat. After 13 years of ageing in ex-bourbon barrels, the casks are shipped directly to Cognac in France where they spend the final two years of their life in Ferrand Cognac casks; giving a nod to Plantation’s signature style. Intense notes of fresh custard and vanilla jump out on the nose with rich, stewed meadow fruits such as plum, dates and figs. If you’re into your Jamaican-style rums, you simply cannot miss this one.

£74.95, Hard To Find Whisky

Diplomatico 2005

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Sitting snugly at the foothills of the Andes Mountains, Diplomatico has been responsible for helping put Venezuelan rum on the map. Every few years they launch a much-awaited single vintage and this year continued to impress with flying colours. Distilled in 2005, the liquid was matured in white American oak casks before being finished in oloroso sherry casks for an additional year. The result is exceptional, with noticeable layers of rich dark fruits, coffee, cocoa and tobacco. Evolving every 10 minutes, it sits within your glass as ripe orchard and meadow fruits, creamy vanilla, glazed pineapple, treacle pudding and a bitter dark chocolate flavours emerge. The only way to drink this is neat.

£98, Wood Winters

Mount Gay Master Blender Collection Andean Oak Cask

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When Mount Gay release their small-batch rums, it’s time to pay attention. Their latest drop saw Andean oak being the cask of choice. This non-traditional finish is sourced from an altitude of around 3.2km in the Colombian Andes and is the only oak native to South America. Very few have ventured into this territory when it comes to ageing rum, but the distinct spiciness and surge of aromatics in this creation are on another level. Expect layers upon layers of nutmeg and cinnamon with vanilla muffins, pear tart, charred coconut and a dollop of toffee apple. A love affair of fruit and spice.

£150, Berry Bro & Rudd

Appleton Estate 21 Year Old

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What happens when you age a rum for 21 years in a unique Jamaican tropical microclimate? Spoiler: it’s amazing. Based on the humidity and climate in which they’re made, Appleton’s rums are said to age three times faster than that of single malt scotches, allowing them to rapidly intensify over a shorter period of time. Doing that maths, that’s the equivalent of a 63-year-old scotch. A combination of bespoke casks, climate and age result in a massively textured rum with a deep personality. Mahogany in colour with a twinge of green olive, the floral notes jump out at first, quickly followed by a hazelnut and toasted almond bouquet. Next up, it’s vanilla creme brulee, burnt orange rind and a plethora of baking spices. The finale hits a spectacular note: warm, toasty espresso and a sprinkling of freshly cracked cacao. It’s like a novel unfolding before your very own eyes. Stunning.

£151.99, The Bottle Club

The Last Drop 1976 Jamaica Rum

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As far as hidden treasures go, this has to be one of the most exciting. The Last Drop make it their mission to travel around the globe sourcing exceptional casks from remarkable places. These casks have stood the test of time, waiting to one day be unearthed and enjoyed by those who truly have a passion to explore the very finest the world can offer.

Here we have their first foray into rum, discovered in 2019 in the docks of Liverpool. This 43-year-old dream was originally produced in the south of Jamaica, and after years of enjoying the warmth of the Caribbean, it was shipped to Liverpool and re-racked. Years have passed as it has sat, patiently waiting, its rich dark bronze hue a nod to the near half-century that has passed.

Ripe orchard fruits meet a stewed tropical glaze as allspice, nutmeg and a cedar smoke jump out on the nose. The palate brings with it spicy marmalade, burnt caramel and tobacco, complemented by a distinct ginger and nutmeg. Like with all things this old, the finish is where things really stand out; a dry spicy cacao seems to never fade with a slight kiss of aniseed as the final chord strikes. Only 183 bottles existed and very few remain today and as with most things that take time, the price reflects that. But — should the oppurtunity arise to try it, don’t walk, run. To be drinking something created the same year Steve Jobs founded Apple and Jimmy Carter won the US election is pretty damn amazing.

£3,000, The Whisky Exchange

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