Not all new restaurants are worth their salt. Many of them flail and splutter. Here, we share our critics’ least commendable meals; some of these ventures might have improved since — we do hope so — and not all are abject failures, but it’s safe to say that they didn’t inspire like those on our list of the best.
Swiss Butter
Our chief food critic Jimi Famurewa had a profoundly unsatisfying time at Swiss Butter, a single concept restaurant specialising — or so the business would suggest — in steak. It was a less than enthusing mess of a meal, bringing a grisly rib-eye and “catering supplier fries” that were, unfortunately, over-seasoned. Read the full review.
114-118 Southampton Row, WC1B 5AA, swissbutter.com
Dorothy and Marshall
Bromley is hardly a culinary utopia. Even Marugame Udon couldn’t survive there. So it might be unsurprising that a British bistro in the borough failed to charm Jimi. Another view is that it’s all a little sad: a place with apparently good intentions — bringing central London swagger to the sticks — but which failed to get even the basics right. Read the full review.
4 Court Street, Bromley, BR1 1AN, dorothyandmarshall.co.uk
Mauro Colagreco
Not all bad by any stretch, but Jimi’s three-star lunch at Mauro Colagreco ended with what might be one of the capital’s “most traumatising bills.” Our critic conceded that the food alone is worthy, perhaps, of a commendable four stars, but the experience overall was one that shunned conviviality — and cost too much. And, worse, it was boring. Read the full review.
Mauro Colagreco, Raffles London at The OWO, SW1A 9AX, raffles.com/london
Chung’dam
Going Out editor David Ellis found this Korean spot in Soho wanting. There were some strong dishes, but the meal in essence was “lifeless.” It was the bill that cemented Ellis’ dismay: not one service charge of 12.5 per cent was presented, but two: one round for the kitchen, a second for the waiting staff. Two lacklustre stars, then. Read the full review.
35-36 Greek Street, W1D 5DL, chungdam.co.uk
Jamie Oliver Catherine St
He’s back. Jamie Oliver is back with a UK restaurant. Not necessarily a good thing, according to David, who encountered a stylish place with “slow service” and food that emanated “notes of surface cleaner.” The venture is new so might be afforded time to ameliorate. For now, at least, it’s not living up to Oliver’s name. Two stars here. Read the full review.
