There's something about the hulk of a mountain. All that land soaring up into the space where the sky should be; it's magnetic.
In Cape Town, Table Mountain is the undisputed star, soaring above the city’s skyline with her sister peaks of Lion’s Head and Signal Hill playing entourage. It’s the biggest attraction that most visitors check off in the Mother City, like London’s Big Ben. Then there’s Robben Island, the tiny islet on which the late Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years, now a major tourist site. The South African city is also on the backpacker trail, the last and arguably glitziest metropolis on the African continent before the icy wilds of Antarctica.
But there is so much more to the Mother City than jaw-dropping topography and echoes of Apartheid. If you pull back the curtain, you’ll find luxury boutiques, gourmet restaurants, artisan markets and a buzzy night scene on par with London, albeit with much better weather and wildlife.
If you want to go beyond the usual and get a real flavour of this magnificent city, here’s my must-see, eat and dos in the best districts.
Know before you go
The essential info
- Local currency: South African Rand
- Visa: not required for British passport holders for stays of less than 90 days
- Flight time: around 12 hours, usually overnight
- Time difference: GMT +2
- Getting around?: Ubers are plentiful and cheap. A friend and I took three cabs over one evening and it cost £5 each.
- When to go: winter and spring
V&A Waterfront
Like the West End, the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront is a tourist heartland, packed with restaurants, bars, shops and attractions.
The V&A Time Out Market is filled with stalls from Cape Town’s culinary scene but can get incredibly busy with groups and pushchairs. Swerve the bimbling crowds by retreating to one of the waterfront restaurants on the quayside beside boats and yachts offering marine life-spotting voyages and cruises at sunset.
Seeing Cape Town from the water at golden hour is well worth it; book a vessel with an on-board bar to soak up the views with a glass of something chilled and sparkling in hand. Not sure what to order? Cap Classique never goes amiss.
For beach bar vibes, Grand Africa is a ten-minute stroll towards Green Point serving ice-cold pints and cocktails on low tables and floor cushions arranged over soft white sand. Want to party under the southern stars? Cabo Beach Club, best reached by Uber, hosts DJs and festivals with a sandy dance floor and comfortable lounge spaces in a warehouse-style setting.
Close to the Robben Island Gateway, the point from which tours to the infamous prison begin, you will find the much-celebrated Silo. Its rooftop bar is widely regarded as one of the best spots to enjoy a sundowner, while the ground floor houses the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa.
With both the CBD (Central Business District) and the Twelve Apostles sides of the city stretching out on either side, The Waterfront is centrally placed to explore the best of Cape Town. And in the midst of the hub sits Fairmont-managed hotel, Cape Grace.
Favoured by politicians, celebrities and musicians playing at the nearby DHL Stadium - Robbie Williams’ band were in the suite next door when I stayed - the hotel is charming, secure and private, all while remaining in the heart of the action. Whether you’re having a Waterfront lunch, visiting Robben Island or need sweet air-conditioned relief following an intense afternoon of sunbathing, Cape Grace is the ultimate city centre HQ you’ll feel as though you have all to yourself.
It’s the only place I’ve been where you can order steak and eggs for breakfast while sensational fine dining awaits in the evening - we had fresh oysters, braai rack of lamb and a goat’s cheese dessert studded with shards of Black Forest ham.
Add in a spa, postcard marina views, and sparkling hospitality, and you’ll soon find yourself plotting, as I did, of ways to extend your stay.
Oranjezicht City Farm Market
Every Wednesday evening (4 - 9pm), Oranjezicht market, set beside the Waterfront, heaves with in-the-know tourists, locals and small businesses hawking their wares, from a pick ‘n’ mix-style biltong counter to stalls selling fat squares of fudge and, of course, bottles fresh from Cape Town’s nearby winelands.
Jason’s, the city’s cult bakery, has space here, saving you from the lengthy queues at its other CT branches. Wander through the live cooking stations for as long as you can tolerate the heat before grabbing a bench at the back, picking up a freshly hacked coconut water along the way.
The CBD
For souvenir shopping, culture and fine dining, make a beeline for Cape Town’s central business district, aka the CBD. It’s easy to zip through the streets laid out in neat grids. The main thoroughfares are Long, Kloof and Bree streets, lined with pastel Victorian houses, striped awnings, street cafes and independent shops.
If it’s culture you’re after, or just respite from the sun, there’s plenty to keep you entertained. Think the South African National Gallery and fascinating District Six Museum, which offers a snapshot of Apartheid in the area, to the Museum of Dogs - just as lovely and barking as it sounds.
The strength of the Pound Sterling against the Rand means you can enjoy Michelin-style dining for far less than you would pay in London. Belly of the Beast on Harrington Street is one of the finest with premium local produce transformed into holiday-making dishes. Leave your order in the hands of the staff and don't miss the wine pairings.
Must-stop coffee shops include Kasteel Café and Deluxe Coffeeworks Bo-kaap, from which you can explore the colourful streets of the tiny Cape Malay enclave.
Seapoint
Sandwiched between Clifton's four beaches and Green Point’s striped lighthouse you will find Seapoint. Though the main drag veers away from the crashing waves, it's well worth a wander - especially if you’re feeling peckish.
Regent Road is a miniature Angel Upper Street with the buzziest restos arranged along two blocks and chattering queues spilling onto the pavement every night.
Here’s where you’ll find Mojo indoor food market, Brash for fresh smash burgers, beauty salons offering 40-minute express manis (including BioSculpture for £13, a total steal compared to London’s £40-odd prices) and the Only Fools pub, a lively bar packed with the young (not too young - no under-23s), the tanned, and the beautiful.
The outlier is Arthur’s Mini Super, the cutest corner shop in Cape Town, with shelves stocked with tins of Perello olives and fresh bread in the day. By evening, a tiny bar fires out carafes of new-gen wines (prices from £2.80 a glass) and snacks like pizza toast from behind its curved counter. From here, the beach is a five-minute stroll, making it an ideal refuelling pitstop between sunbathing sessions.
Camps Bay
Even if the weather isn't up to scratch on the CBD side of Table Mountain, sometimes all it takes is a bend in the road to turn things around as you head into affluent Camps Bay.
With supercars sparkling in the sun, luxury boutiques and smart restaurants lining the strip, the area serves major Kensington-on-sea vibes. Hire sunloungers on the banana-shaped curve of fine sand, knowing that when you’ve had your fill of Vitamin Sea, plush, shaded retreats are moments away.
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Cafe Caprice is a refined eaterie from which to people-watch or gaze at the ocean, ideally with a glass of chilled fizz from the in-house Veuve Clicquot bar. If you’re in town over the weekend, book in for the venue’s legendary brunches which go long into the evening, complete with a DJ. Whatever you do, don’t miss the sushi plates, on par with the likes of Nobu.
If all you’re after is a quick bite and pint, point your sandals to Tiger’s Milk next door. This chain - you’ll find branches speckled all over Cape Town - is a solid spot for casual all-day lunch and dinner options. Harry’s is another prime Camps Bay viewing post where you can dine on fresh seafood and enjoy artisan cocktails in the Atlantic Ocean breeze.
Abha Shah was a guest of Cape Grace. Starting rates are from USD$1000 for a Fairmont Harbour Facing Room, including breakfast. capegrace.com
