I first came to New York City by accident, after a miscommunication with my father led me to believe my (long-deceased) mother had been desperate to visit the city before she died.
Years later I found out that my mum had actually wanted to go to Paris. But I still had a great time in New York, and ended up moving here a couple of years later.
On that first trip I did all the main tourist things which, owing to the miscommunication, I had thought my mother had wanted to do: I went up big buildings, looked at big buildings, drank in bars beneath big buildings.
It was great and everything, but there’s much, much more to do here – especially if you like eating, riding about by subway and ferry, and bargaining for knockoff luxury goods.
Day 1: Boating and brownstones
A lot of people have heard of the Staten Island ferry, and for good reason. It’s free to travel on the big orange boats between the southern tip of Manhattan and Staten Island. The route goes right past the Statue of Liberty, and offers amazing views of lower Manhattan.
As a boat lover, I’d also recommend taking the NYC ferry. It has a flat fare of $4 and operates up and down the East River, passing under bridges and allowing riders to snoop at waterside buildings.
If you’re starting in Manhattan (which you probably are), take the southbound ferry from East 34th Street to the Brooklyn neighborhood of Dumbo, which stands for “down under the Manhattan Bridge overpass”. It’s here where everyone with an Instagram account gets their shots of both the Manhattan Bridge and the (older, better-known) Brooklyn Bridge. Plenty of people will visit this area then turn their back on Brooklyn, but I’d recommend sticking around New York City’s most populous and, depending whom you speak to, trendiest borough.
Pop by Jane’s Carousel, an exquisitely restored 1922 ride which is plonked between the bridges, and then walk south through Brooklyn Bridge Park. You’ll go past several piers – once working docks now transformed into leafy picnic and sport areas. There are magnificent views across to Manhattan. It’s a nice spot to propose to a partner, as my little brother did last year. If you don’t want to do that, but do like to play soccer or basketball or roller-skate, you’re in luck.
After you hit Pier 6, where there’s a pleasant, if expensive, rooftop pizza restaurant called Fornino, walk up Atlantic Avenue for some shopping and coffee at Goose Barnacle, an independent clothing store with a hidden bar in the back. The owner, Dave Alperin, a fourth-generation Brooklynite, is very friendly and knowledgable about the area and can give you tips about everything from where to buy the best sandwich (Lillo Cucina Italiana – try the Mamma Roma) to the location of a semi-secret basement speakeasy (Le Boudoir) nearby.
From there I’d take a bus or cab to Fort Greene, a very pretty neighborhood whose townhouses are the sort of Brooklyn thing you see in the movies, and grab dinner at Olea. If you make it before 6.30pm, there’s a great happy hour.
Day 2: Rude T-shirts and not-quite Rolexes
Manhattan’s Soho neighborhood has all the posh shops, so if you have money, or like looking through windows at expensive clothes and bags, walk east along Prince Street from West Broadway. There are nice buildings to look at around here too – the newly constructed towers that abound in the city are largely absent in this neighborhood. Stop in at Fanelli Cafe, a neighborhood stalwart that has been around since 1847, for a coffee or some food, then head south along Broadway to Chinatown.
There are lots of great dim sum places, including Golden Unicorn, whose large fancy dining hall is located on the second floor of a marble-esque building. From there I’d take a walk along Canal Street, dipping into sidestreets for cheap souvenirs – snow globes, little statues and that sort of thing – and bizarre T-shirts (many of which are very rude).
Chinatown also does a roaring trade in imitation watches and handbags. So if, like me, you will not and cannot spend $30,000 on a watch but have about $100 to spare, you can get (to my eye) a fairly good imitation. The food markets along Canal Street also sell real nice timepieces – they even work – if you fancy sticking it to big watch. You’ll find plenty of “designer” bags too.
Hopefully you’re hungry again, because Great NY Noodletown is, per its name, great – especially the roast pig on rice.
From there I’d head farther south and stop in at Whiskey Tavern, the friendliest bar I’ve ever been to in my life (and I’ve been to a lot of bars). They print out personalized welcome signs that they will stick to your table or behind the bar, which sounds a bit naff – but isn’t. The real reason to come is to chat to locals and regulars. It’s also one of the closest bars to city hall, which means there’s a regular stream of “Just Married” couples doing shots of whiskey and eating chicken wings.
If you’ve still got energy, and like singing or shouting, go to Up Stairs, a karaoke bar tucked behind a nondescript doorway on Canal Street. Drinks are cheap, and it gets packed with revelers.
Day 3: Seaside shenanigans
If, like me, you’re a fan of once-glamorous seaside attractions that are now in a state of faded glory, then take the F train to Coney Island. People seem to overlook the fact that the city is surrounded by water, and while Coney Island isn’t the nicest beach for bathing (for that, try Fort Tilden or Jacob Riis Park), there’s loads to do.
Kick things off by watching a Brooklyn Cyclones game. The Cyclones are a feeder team to the New York Mets. They play at Maimonides Park, tickets are usually dirt cheap and easy to get, and you’ll be able to enjoy a nice view of the Atlantic Ocean. If you want a snazzy memento, buy a beer in a foot-long plastic baseball bat. Sometimes they let the crowd “run the bases” after the game, which is a lot of fun, especially if you’ve had more than one of the baseball bat beers.
After the exhilaration of taking in second-tier baseball, walk east towards the Cyclone, one of the oldest and, as far as I can tell, rickety-est rollercoasters in the US. The wooden ride – described as “pretty extreme” by Coaster Critic – will celebrate its 100th birthday in 2027, and it sounds and looks its age. Buyer beware.
Once you’ve stumbled off the ride, go for a settling drink at Ruby’s, the oldest bar on the boardwalk. You can take in the black-and-white shots of Coney Island in its 1930s glory, and if you’re feeling brave, buy a cardboard box full of clams.
Every Friday night from late June to September there is a fireworks show on the beach, which draws a large crowd. You could take it in while eating borscht and sipping coffee or vodka at Tatiana’s, a Russian restaurant-cum-nightclub a 10-minute walk along the boardwalk from the Cyclone.
Side note: you don’t need to wait until summer to visit. I went a day after it had snowed, and it was brilliant.
Question time
How many days do you need to visit New York City?
Three would be fine. If you want to take in all the Instagram favorite destinations, then maybe four.
What’s the most-visited attraction? Is it worth it?
Times Square. And not really. But it’s near enough to other attractions that if you’re heading to a Broadway show then you might as well walk through it.
When is the best time to visit?
The peak of summer can be boiling hot, and winter can be freezing cold. May through early July and September through October are usually a safe bet.
How expensive is it?
New York City is expensive. If you’re staying in Manhattan you’d be (very) lucky to get a hotel room for about $200 a night – but bear in mind that there will usually be hefty taxes on top of that. A bog standard coffee will cost you about $5, a pint anywhere from $6 to $10. The subway fare recently went up: it’s $2.90 a ride now.
Adam Gabbatt is a writer for the Guardian and is originally from the north of England. He has lived in New York City for 13 years and now says “trash” instead of “rubbish” and “sidewalk” instead of “pavement” and his family hates him for it
