Yamba is on the traditional lands of the Yaegl people. It’s about three hours’ drive south of Brisbane on the New South Wales north coast. My family moved here when I was 11. I left for university and work and moved back 20 years ago when I had children.
I live in town with Pippi beach on one side and Convent beach on the other. In summer, I try to get into the ocean every day.
Food
Even in the 1980s, Yamba had great restaurants. Partly because it’s a tourist town but also because locals live healthily and are a bit alternative and environmentally minded. Fresh and locally sourced food isn’t new – great sourdough and coffee are though!
Playa Bodega is very popular (book ahead). It’s not one of those cheesy, gut-filling Mexican restaurants; it’s all super-fresh ingredients with traditional herbs and spices. It uses lots of local seafood in dishes such as chargrilled octopus and prawn tacos.
The Italian chef at El Ocaso offers dishes such as zucchini flowers, veal pappardelle and risotto. There’s an extensive wine menu. You can get entrees on the balcony or opt for a huge three-course meal with a focus on seafood and freshly made pasta. Last time I went the chef had harvested seaweed off a local beach.
Locals often get takeaway from Yamba’s Fisho on a Friday night. It’s great quality and always busy. We love Drift Pizza Bar, too. It uses free-range meat, handmade cheese and organic flour and offers delicious starters, including house-baked focaccia with whipped ricotta and honey. I’m a non-drinker and Drift’s mocktail take on Aperol spritz is fantastic.
All of Yamba’s best cafes use the beans roasted at Botero up the road in Maclean. Pinewood Corner is a cool cafe and hub for young people run by two local women. Yum Yum does a great soy chai (my beverage of choice), as does Gather Yamba.
Green spaces
Yamba doesn’t have that whole Byron Bay influencer thing going on. There’s no one spot to go for the Instagram photo. But you can’t venture far in any direction without running into water. We’re surrounded by rivers, lakes, rock pools and beaches and a protected spot to swim on a windy day is always possible. Drive around and see where all the cars are parked. That’s the tell!
My local is Pippi beach, or Whiting beach if there’s an onshore wind. The latter is at the mouth of the Clarence River and has no waves. Yamba breakwall is a dog-friendly walk from Turners beach that’s about 800 metres long. You might see whales or sharks; you’ll nearly always see dolphins. A beautiful vista of the lighthouse and all of Yamba can be enjoyed at the end of the seawall.
It’s a 40-minute coastal walk (or a 10-minute drive) to the cool freshwater of Angourie blue and green pools just outside Yuraygir national park. The green pool has more shade and bush. The blue pool is adjacent to a big saltwater rock pool.
Yamba BBQ Boat Hire is popular along the Clarence River. The pontoon boats fit up to 12 people and you don’t need a boat licence, just a designated driver. Take food to cook onboard or picnic on one of the river islands.
Nightlife
You don’t come to Yamba to go clubbing. But we do have some great live music. Jacko’s bar feels like a little Melbourne spot. It’s run by a local guy and, according to my kids, it’s “vibey”. There’s karaoke, music bingo, DJ sets and local acts, plus great tapas and cocktails. Yamba Shores Tavern on the river can be worth checking out for bands.
Yamba Kayak runs sunset paddles and monthly full moon tours with dinner and a drink included.
The Pacific hotel is one of Australia’s best-situated pubs. The floor-to-ceiling windows have unobstructed views of the Pacific Ocean. I love it in all seasons. When it pours rain in winter, it hits the windows and you almost feel as though you’re in Ireland.
Inspiration
The culture here is about outdoor living and a healthy lifestyle. Yamba farmers’ and producers’ market runs on Wednesday mornings near Whiting beach. It’s a great place to buy a spread of local goods including meat, seafood, coffee and spirits from Yamba Distilling Co. There’s live music and a friendly atmosphere.
The local Aboriginal corporation, Mudyala, sells Indigenous foods by Bakarindi bushfoods and puzzles and posters in Yaegl language.
Learning to surf or kayak is a big thing here. Surf Camp Down Under offers one-off lessons and weekend surf camps. My yoga studio, Free the Coconut, welcomes new faces with its seven-day “vacay pass” and it also offers pilates classes.
Neighbourhood
There’s plenty to see, do and experience in Yamba town. On top of nature activities, there’s also the Bowlo for lawn and tenpin bowling or mini-golf. People come specifically to shop in our lovely retail area because all the boutiques are privately owned. Yamba people don’t want big businesses taking over; we have a real “shop local” attitude.
Angourie and Wooloweyah are little towns on the edge of the national park. Angourie is coastal chic with world-class waves for surfing. It’s the starting point for the 65km Yuraygir coastal walk. Wooloweyah is more chilled and laid-back set on a huge tidal lake where you can swim, fish and kayak. Angourie back beach is a tucked-away spot that locals love.
Accommodation
I’m glad I’m a Yamba local because I couldn’t afford to holiday here during peak season! Having said that, there are spots to suit most budgets.
Il Delfino (from $550 for a double room) is the glamorous new place in town. With its ocean outlook and decor, mosaics and balconies, you could be on a Mediterranean island.
The Stella motel (from $160 for a double room) is a former convent that has been nicely remodelled. It’s a five-minute walk to four beaches. Yamba Central (from $110 with a shared bathroom; $140 with en suite) is a microbrewery with accommodation for backpackers and the budget conscious. Angourie has some beautiful Airbnbs that are worth checking out.
• Jacqui Hinshaw is a longtime Yamba local, teacher and creative
