The Sunshine Coast is on land traditionally owned by the Kabi Kabi/Gubbi Gubbi and Jinibara peoples. It runs from the Glass House mountains in the south, and north to Noosa – about a 50-minute drive on the Bruce Highway.
It’s known as a family friendly holiday destination where you can rent a nice apartment right on the beach. But I think there’s more variety and natural beauty in the hinterlands. I’m based in the idyllic town of Mapleton, a 30-minute drive inland. It’s lush rainforest country with lots of waterfalls.
Food
The dining scene hinges on a laid-back beach vibe where you get fresh produce and great culinary experiences in casual settings.
The owners of Mapleton Public House also run the organic Falls Farm, which supplies produce to many top restaurants. The chef, Cameron Matthews, updates the menu often and the wine list is Australia-forward. It’s in a classic Queenslander building with a wraparound veranda overlooking the Blackall Range and out to the ocean.
Terella Brewing in North Arm is my favourite brewery. On the weekends you bring a picnic blanket, hit up the food trucks and listen to live music on the lawn. It has a petting zoo for kids, too. Last year, Matso’s opened its first outpost outside Western Australia in Eumundi. It has a big outdoor beer garden and great food.
At Piggyback in Palmwoods you can get a bao bun and a spicy margarita and eat with your shoes off. It’s owned by Tony Kelly who’s behind Rice Boi in Mooloolaba and Giddy Geisha in Maroochydore. They’re all great. My local secret is in the cute mountain town of Montville. The Neapolitan-style pizza at Fiorio & Co is unmissable! Get it takeaway and find a lookout on the range to watch the sunset.
My hot tips for coffee are The Island Surf & Espresso in Mudjimba, Nambour Social and Ours at Moffat Beach.
Green spaces
I do Kondalilla Falls circuit walk most mornings. The part to Picnic Creek waterfall is wheelchair accessible. The walk continues to the epic 80-metre drop of Kondalilla Falls and on to a deep rock pool at its base. It’s really cold water so it’s super busy in summer but, at 8am, I’m cleaning cobwebs off the trail. For serenity at any time, Flat Rock is a swimming hole in the rainforest on an offshoot of the same track.
Mount Coolum is busy at all hours so my tip is to climb Mount Ninderry instead. It’s not as sun- or height-exposed and you’re in the bush for most of the 45-minute walk. I grab a smoothie at Gun Cotton Coffee Roasters afterwards.
The Blackall Range was heavily logged, with the exception of Mary Cairncross scenic reserve, so it has the old-growth rainforest that once covered the area: huge fig trees and soaring bunya nut pines. The information centre has really skilled volunteers and the walk is easy. There are lots of red-legged pademelons and a bat colony that roosts behind Maleny library.
The platypus walk along Obi Obi Creek allegedly has more platypuses per kilometre of waterway than anywhere else. They’re easier to see in the early morning but turtles, bush rats and water dragons are worth looking out for. My favourite spot to swim is Tea Tree Bay in Noosa national park. It’s less crowded than the main beach, the water seems calmer and there’s always a tree to sit under.
Nightlife
The Sunshine Coast has a “get up early” mentality. The beach is crowded by 6am because locals go before work; they’re out having coffee at 6am too. Part of the reason is there’s not much to do at night – even the restaurants close early.
The Indigenous-owned Saltwater Eco Tours glides through the Mooloolaba canals. Its evening trip has incredible bush-tucker-forward canapés, cocktails and live music on an old restored wooden yacht. You motor quietly along looking at rich people’s homes. It cruises past the (Steve) Irwin family home – a boat with a crocodile painted on the side is outside.
My spot for sundowners is Sunshine Beach Surf Club. It has a patio with an ocean view and you have a good chance of getting a table outdoors. Mapleton Public House has live music in a room that only fits about 50 people so it’s a lovely, intimate experience. Malaney’s Spill Wine bar is more inner-west Sydney than the usual bohemian hippy vibes here. They serve wines you wouldn’t find elsewhere and delicious small bites.
Inspiration
My personal favourite is the Rangebow festival in August – our own pride festival. It does a legendary drag show where experienced drag queens teach keen learners costumes and personas for a finale performance. The show is in the tiny Maleny community hall but the production quality is really high.
Eumundi markets is well known and loved but the locals prefer Yandina country market (Saturdays), which specialises in plants. Witta market (monthly) is hyper local but it’s so nice to sit on the grass and listen to the music. After Witta, continue to the cheesery at Kenilworth Dairies for a sampler pack of its cheese or other great picnic food.
The op-shopping here is amazing; it’s not picked-over or overpriced. There’s heaps of 50s and 60s clothing here too but it’s pricier. My favourite curated vintage shop is Collective Haus.
Neighbourhood
Everybody says that up-and-coming suburb Peregian Beach is the next Noosa. It puts on the bougiest market on the Sunshine Coast. Linen beats out the hemp and everything is a shade of tan or beige. If you’re seeking a designer hat, Peregian Beach is the spot.
Accomodation
The historic Maleny Lodge (studio room from $200/whole house from $1,200) has claw-foot tubs, antique furniture and a pool. It’s a lovely winter stay; a whiskey by the fire, that kind of thing. Habitat Noosa is an eco camp setup on Lake Cootharaba, getting up into the Noosa everglades. The options range from unpowered campsites (from $35) to glamping (from $210) and it has the biggest kangaroos you’ll ever see. Eumundi’s Imperial hotel (from $220) is prided for its local art and fab spot across from the markets.
• Jessica Lockhart is Lonely Planet’s destination editor for Oceania and a co-author of the latest Australia guidebook. Follow her travels on Instagram
