Lake Tahoe is not the first place that comes to mind when one conjures the food of Puerto Rico. So, imagine my surprise when I ordered the whole Tai snapper at The Ritz-Carlton’s Manzanita Restaurant and was presented with an exquisite California rendition of the classic Puerto Rican asopao.
Asopao is a traditional rice stew that can be made with any kind of protein (chicken is the most typical) and is given its Puerto Rican character by the addition of any combination of herbs and spices on hand, often oregano, garlic, chiles, tomatoes, and paprika.garlic. This version has onions, cilantro, and black beans, as well. The whole fish is grilled to perfection, leaving the skin crispy, and topped with a green sauce of fresh herbs and olive oil.
Like every great dish, this one has a backstory. When I asked about the preparation, Chef de Cuisine Hernan Melendez strolled out of the kitchen to chat. Melendez, along with Chef Alexis Torres and a handful of other restaurant staff, came to the Tahoe property from his home of Puerto Rico after 2017′s Hurricane Maria devastated the island. Employees of The Ritz-Carltons there were offered positions at other hotels in the brand’s portfolio. Melendez came thinking the move would be temporary, but he decided to make Tahoe his home.
Melendez says that, from day one, he was encouraged to experiment with bringing his native cooking style to the menu. While the dishes influenced by Puerto Rican cooking are not labeled as such on the menu, Executive Sous Chef Christian Brassfield says that at least four dishes currently on the menu draw inspiration from the traditions carried over by the inadvertently transplanted chefs. In addition to the Tai snapper, Brassfield says, “We also add a great Puerto Rican rum into the braising liquid for the 48-hour braised short rib. The chickpea sofrito is a classic Puerto Rican dish (also gluten-free and vegetarian), and the Whole Striped Bass is stuffed with rice, peppers, cilantro, and lime in a Puerto Rican style.”
I also asked Brassfield how this subtle shift in the kitchen took place after the new staff arrived from the Puerto Rico hotels. Brassfield says, “One of my favorite parts of being a chef is collaborating with other chefs.” We share memories of celebrating with our families as children. We try to innovate and expand our palates and extend that experience to our guests. We also try to walk a fine line with tradition while expressing our creativity through food.”
Luckily, the bounty of northern California meats, vegetables, fruits, and herbs is harmonious with Puerto Rican ingredients and technique. And its a testament to the brand that staff on the ground have the freedom to adapt to change in organic and instinctive ways.
Manzanita Restaurant has always been a highlight of a trip to Tahoe, but now even more so, given this recent spontaneous infusion of creativity.
