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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel
Amira Hashish

A guide to Chicago and Austin for music lovers

Music is good for the soul so what better way to spend a week in the United States than exploring its blues, jazz and rock heritage.

We took in two very different experiences in Chicago and Austin. Here is a guide to hitting the right note in each city...

CHICAGO

Where to stay

The Hoxton

In the heart of the city’s vibrant Fulton Market District, this new installment from the Hoxton group may just be its coolest yet. It has already become a must visit for locals who are packing out the three dining and drinking spots including an open-air rooftop Peruvian restaurant with renowned chef Stephanie Izard at the helm.

The moody basement Lazy Bird cocktail bar is a must for a post dinner tipple whilst the airy double-height lobby is a design feat, kitted out with sumptuous furniture and a statement bar. There is even a rooftop pool.

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There is a nod to the neighbourhood’s industrial past in the bedrooms with unfinished concrete ceilings and warehouse-style windows complemented by two-toned walls in white and rose, mid-century furniture, brass bed lamps, custom-made rugs and walk-in showers with herringbone tilework. They are super stylish and well laid-out. Make a beeline for this homely hotel which has style in abundance as well as a laid-back and fun vibe. Rates from $129, thehoxton.com.

Where to find the music

Kingston Mines

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This is a guaranteed fun night out. Founded by Doc Pellegrino in 1968, Kingston Mines is the largest and oldest continuously operating blues club in Chicago. Its two stages have been graced by the likes of Magic Slim, Koko Taylor, Sugar Blue, Billy Branch, Junior Wells, Joanna Connor, Carl Weathersby and scores of other musical greats. Non-stop blues action, seven nights a week. An absolute must, kingstonmines.com.

Rosa's Lounge

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This rustic haunt is family owned and operated by an Italian immigrant who came to Chicago in 1978 after meeting Jr. Wells and Buddy Guy in Milan. Tony found the true spirit of the blues at South side lounges like the legendary Theresa's Lounge and he opened Rosa's in 1984 as a tribute to blues tradition. It is named after his mother Rosa who had followed him here to help. It is where you go to discover gritty, raw blues and you know you are in good company when spotting the picture of Obama paying a visit on the wall, rosaslounge.com.

Winter’s Jazz

Anyone seeing a spot of jazz should head here. Six nights a week local singers take to the stage and sing their hearts out. As well as the classic take on the genre, there are gypsy, swing and New Orleans style concerts, wintersjazzclub.com.

Chicago Cultural Center

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Discover the stories behind Chicago’s music scene at The Department of Cultural Affairs and Special Events (DCASE) which is dedicated to enriching its artistic side. A regular series of cultural activities is listed at chicago.gov.

Willie Dixon's Blues Heaven Foundation at Chess Records

The historic Chess Records building was restored in 1993 by Maria Dixon, widow of Willie Dixon, to house the Blues Heaven Foundation. These days it mainly functions as a small museum, paying homage to Dixon and its musical heritage. Sign up for a walking tour and learn about the iconic moments that took shape in this very building including original Rolling Stones recordings. A highlight is standing in the very spot where Etta James recorded At Last, bluesheaven.com.

Chicago History Museum

Home to a rolling series of exhibitions that tell the story of Chicago’s musical past and future through memorabilia and costume. Also look out for a stage where you can put on your very own show, chicagohistorymuseum.org.

Where to eat and drink

Beatrix

An excellent all day restaurant, Beatrix has a few outposts around the city. We ventured to the buzzing Fulton Market branch and enjoyed delicious healthy food, innovative drinks and great service. Whether you are having a date night or a group gathering, this is the kind of venue that really hits the spot, beatrixrestaurants.com.

mfk.

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Cute and intimate, this unassuming nook takes its food very seriously. Influenced by Spanish coastal cuisines, the dishes are full of flavour. There is also a fun cocktail list, mfkrestaurant.com.

Beacon Tavern

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A cosy and casual spin on a gastropub with seafood as its speciality. Dishes are wholeseome and served with enthusiasm. There is a good wine list too. Steps from the Chicago riverfront and the famous Magnificent Mile, it is a handy stop-off point when taking in the sights, beacontavern.com.

Revival Food Hall

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This all-local dining concept offers a good way to sample the chefs making waves on Chicago’s foodie scene. On the ground floor of The National, a restoration of a historic 1907 Daniel Burnham-designed 20-story building, it hosts 15 stalls. An ideal lunch spot, revivalfoodhall.com.

Lou Malnati’s

A visit to Chicago is not complete without trying the famous deep dish pizza. Lou Malnati's has stayed true to its recipe first created in the 1950's and is known for its buttery, flakey crust with sweet and tangy tomatoes and gooey mozzarella cheese. Yum, loumalnatis.com.

Don't Miss

Shoreline Sightseeing Architecture River Tour

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Chicago’s architecture is breathtaking and there is no better way to soak it up than to embark on the 75-minute boat tour. On a winding trail, it points out more than 40 Chicago landmarks from hidden architectural treasures to the city’s most famous buildings. The guides are a fountain of knowledge, shorelinesightseeing.com.

AUSTIN

Where to stay

Downtown Hotel

The Hilton Austin in downtown is ideally located for exploring the city. A hop, skip and jump from the live music venues on 6th Street you will appreciate the short commute to your hotel room after a big night out. Ask for a room as high up as possible as the 31-storey block has views of the Capitol of Texas and Lady Bird Lake from some, hilton.com.

Where to find the music

Rainey Street

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Renovated houses turned into bungalow bars line this tucked-away street. Day or night, you’ll find gig-goers strolling from bar to food trailer to bar again. Rock up and see who you stumble upon.

West 6th Street

From whiskey lounges to dive bars, sports bars to backyard hangouts, there is something for every musical mood here. Local brews, craft cocktails, live music and local cuisine blend into one.

The Mohawk

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A local staple with an indoor and outdoor stage, there is an eclectic list of bands performing nightly. Whether you fancy feeling the vibes over a drink or immersing yourself in a show, this venue brings together people from all walks of life, mohawkaustin.com.

Where to eat and drink

Suerte

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Chic and experimantal, Suerte is a new addition to the Austin dining scene. Executive chef Fermin Nunez combines local ingredients, thoughtful cooking techniques and Mexican flavours. The team provide a very warm welcome and the homemade masa is melt in your mouth good. Order a selection of the beautifully presented plates to share, suerteatx.com.

Gospel Brunch at Stubb’s feat. Bells of Joy

Live gospel music and a buffet of southern-style grits, migas, fried catfish and BBQ brisket make for the best kind of brunch. Don’t miss the “make your own” Bloody Mary bar. Watching the local musicians belt out fabulous gospel numbers is a true joy, stubbsaustin.com.

Ranch 616

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A buzzy hangout with Southwstern eats, Ranch 616 is as wholesome as it is hipster. Nab a spot on the terrace and try the many superb cocktails as well as the Texan meat and fish selections, theranch616.com.

Don't Miss

South Congress Avenue

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Spend a day in this hip neighbourhood for cool boutiques, restaurants and galleries. One long strip, it is easy to navigate but is packed with one-off finds.

For more ideas check out visittheusa.co.uk, choosechicago.com and austintexas.org.

British Airways offers flights from London Heathrow into Chicago and returning from Austin from GBP303.22 return, britishairways.com.

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