In 2018, writer Julia Bainbridge published an interview with North Carolina-based chef Scott Crawford about his work in the restaurant industry and his, at the time, 14 years of sobriety. He speaks remarkably candidly about his experiences with alcoholism, drug addiction and myriad illnesses and struggles that came along with them.
When asked what helped him to make a change, he named Alcoholics Anonymous, or AA.
"It took me a while to embrace the program," Crawford said. "I get why it doesn’t work for some people, but you know, if you really, truly have the desire, like I did ... I didn’t want to die."
As far as what helped him "stay the course," as Bainbridge put it?
"Well, it was cooking," Crawford continued. "I felt like I had something to contribute. I had some people tell me that I was wasting talent that not everyone has. And I felt guilty about that. And you know, I used to create that culture of work hard, play hard. These guys in my kitchen looked up to me. I didn’t view myself as a role model, but I was, and I didn’t accept the responsibility of that. So I wanted to make up for that a little bit."
Now, years later — and 20 years sober — Crawford and his team just recently were nominated fo the 2024 James Beard award for "Outstanding Hospitality," the first time he was nominated for a Beard award in the hospitality category (He'd been a semifinalist in the chef category five times prior this recognition).
Salon Food had an opportunity to speak with Crawford and spoke about his sobriety, the growing culture (and "mainstreaming," if you will) of eschewing alcohol in restaurant spaces, his multiple restaurants, his previous nominations, why he cooks and more.
The following interview has been lightly edited for clarity and length.
Hello! I remember your incredibly honest interview with Julia Bainbridge from a few years back and wanted to get an "update" of sorts. Since 2018, "sober curious" has become such a trademark for so many. I gave up alcohol two summers ago and haven't had even a scintilla to pick it back up. How do you think this recent "sober curious" shift is impacting the industry at large, both for customer-facing purposes and also internally?
The sober movement has come a long way and is so thoughtful and no longer an after-thought. And it’s created so many great options for us!
I recently had a N/A wine at Boca in Chicago that I absolutely loved. Internally, in Crawford Hospitality, it's challenged us to be creative in so many ways . . . we’re now grilling fruit to build complexity for cocktails, in place of using spirits and also do a lot with shrubs and drinking vinegars. We have strong spirit-free cocktail programs on all of our menus and they’re very popular.
This fall, I’ll be celebrating 20 years of sobriety, and I wanted to do that by giving back, because so many people gave back to me through my recovery process. I serve on the board of Healing Transitions – a long-term recovery program and shelter. It’s incredibly special to me to acknowledge this moment and all the people that have contributed to my recovery and also to take stock of how much sobriety has meant to my life.
Congrats on the James Beard nomination! How validating was that moment?
It felt so much more validating because it involved our entire team. That category – Outstanding Hospitality – felt so much more gratifying than any other award could have. And to have our team travel together and experience that, was incredible. They’ve worked so hard and earned that recognition.
You've had some amazing accolades over the years. WIth Crawford & Son, Jolie, Crawford Cookshop, Brodeto, Sous Terre — and the upcoming Crawford's 4. Genuine and Crawford's Brother — you truly have your hands full! What else is on the agenda for you?
I’m always keeping an eye open for exciting new opportunities. And as our team expresses desire to grow, we are looking at ideas and opportunities for them, so we’re always exploring options. In the future, we want to create ownership opportunities for our team and we’ve begun to do that – with Jordan at Sous Terre, our new cocktail bar, for example. We hope to do that with other senior leadership team members.
Tell me a bit about your "pedigree," if you will, in the industry?
Back in the ‘90’s, I worked for the very talented Chef Scott Howard at the Black Cat in San Francisco — a JBF “Best New Restaurant.” After that, I spent many years with Ritz Carlton, traveling around the country, as part of their opening team. We opened so many hotels and restaurants across the country during that time.
In 2004, I became Executive Chef at the Relais & Chateaux property near Charleston — Woodlands Resort & Inn, and then was Executive Chef at The Georgian Room at The Cloister Hotel in Sea Island, GA, when Esquire named it a “Best New Restaurant.” Throughout my career, I spent over 15 years in luxury hotel properties and earned 5 stars from Forbes 9 times.
In 2016, I finally went out on my own and now am an owner operator, business owner and CEO of Crawford Hospitality.
Why do you cook? What stands out for you as a formative moment that got you into cooking or food at large?
I’ve always been a craftsman and an artist and love where craft & art intersect. At a young age, I could see how I could have a career in this industry and it could be an amazing creative outlet for me. As a creative person, that outlet was essential for me. Cooking helped me channel my creativity and gave me an opportunity to serve others and make people happy. It also gave me an opportunity to be a leader and create a sustainable life for myself and my family. It’s been pretty amazing to have been able to do all of this, just because of my love of cooking.
What is your favorite cooking memory?
There are so many, but that one night in Greenville, South Carolina, when I cooked for Curtis Duffy, Dominique Crenn and Keanu Reeves was especially memorable.
I prepared a really soulful meal because I know that they eat delicious technique-driven food all over the world. I made a North Carolina goat ragu with pumpkin fazzoletti and pumpkin seed pesto.
What’s your biggest tip for cutting down on food waste?
To understand techniques that allow you to use every part of everything. There is a use for everything. Learn to make delicious food out of trim. Learn how to make beautiful sauces and broths from trim as well as terrines and other charcuterie, for instance. These are skills you have to practice.
How do you practice sustainability?
We work with farmers who have sustainable practices. Like Fortune Fish & Gourmet. Our industry has come a long way and you have to be sustainable within your own four walls as well. Every day, we’re making sure people aren’t overworked or feel unsafe. It's something we take very seriously and work on every day. In fact, beginning July 1, we added a Director of Culture — a role that’s all about cultivating a sustainable culture. It’s all about regular training and team relations. And we recognize how critical it is to have this in place as we grow.
For the unaffiliated, how would you differentiate between all of your restaurants?
Crawford & Son is our flagship and where we’re doing the most intensive, creative work; it represents a certain level of freedom in terms of the lens through which we view American cooking.
Jolie, located next door, is our whimsical indoor-outdoor French bistro. It’s inspired by my daughter – Jolie’s — personality and love for all things Paris. Here, we really lens into classical French cooking.
At Brodeto, our newest restaurant, it is more concept-driven and 100% based on our families visits to the Adriatic Coast over the past five years.
Cookshop is an expression of more casual food, some of which you can eat with your hands. It resonates with me because of my blue collar roots.
