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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Michiel van Noppen, photographs by David Hup

A bear in the backyard – a photo essay

A bear leaves the protection of the forest in search of food.
A bear leaves the protection of the forest in search of food Photograph: David Hup

In the sparsely populated settlements that lie in the shadow of the Carpathian Mountains, the presence of bears is keenly felt. Habitat and therefore food is becoming scarcer for bears because of illegal logging. On their quest for food, bears have to descend more frequently from the ancient forests into villages, which ultimately results in conflicts between man and bear.

A mother bear walks with her cubs on a quiet street in a town in Transylvania
A mother bear walks with her cubs on a quiet street in a town in Transylvania Photograph: David Hup
  • Bears emerge on the quiet streets of a town in Transylvania. When night falls, and the streets become quiet, the bears come out and search for food

Bears emerge at night on the quiet streets of a town in Transylvania
Bears emerge at night on the quiet streets of a town in Transylvania Photograph: David Hup
Bears emerge at night on the quiet streets of a town in Transylvania
Bears emerge at night on the quiet streets of a town in Transylvania Photograph: David Hup

The thriving population is a result of the communist era, when Nicolae Ceaușescu reigned over the Romanian lands and obsessively intervened with nature. He created feeding stations for bears by ordering that cattle cadavers were dumped in the forests to increase the population.

Bears emerge at night on the quiet streets of a town in Transylvania
Bears emerge at night on the quiet streets of a town in Transylvania Photograph: David Hup
  • A bear leaves the protection of the forest and searches for food in a village

Ceaușescu also prohibited the hunting on bears, which was an act of self-interest. Only he and his party members were allowed to hunt bears, and horrific stories from this period still resonate. His actions resulted in the fact that by now Romania is home to more than half of the total population of brown bears in Europe. While other countries had to come up with reintroduction programs, Romanians suffer the consequences from Ceaușescu of his “aid”.

Bears scavenge in bins in a small town in the Carpathian mountains
Bears scavenge in bins in a small town in the Carpathian mountains Photograph: David Hup
Bears scavenge in bins in a small town  in the Carpathian mountains
Bears scavenge in bins in a small town in the Carpathian mountains Photograph: Michiel van Noppen/David Hup
Bears scavenge in bins in a small town located in the Carpathian mountains
Bears scavenge in bins in a small town in the Carpathian mountains Photograph: David Hup
Bears scavenge in bins in a small town in the Carpathian mountains
Bear in theBears scavenge in bins in a small town located in the Carpathian mountains Photograph: David Hup
  • Bears scavenge in bins in a small town in the Carpathian mountains

With this photo story we want to show a beautiful, but often overlooked part of Europe. One of the last places in this crowded continent that still harbours true wilderness. Where people have lived with big carnivores since the beginning of time. From remnants of people living among the now extinct cave-bear 35,000 years ago, to a dictator who obsessively intervened in the population of bears, to a modern society where almost everyone has a story about bears.

Romanians have a rich history with bears but have always struggled to co-exist with these large carnivores. Today, villages are being raided, tourist groups attacked and shepherds are bringing their sheep to the highest peaks of mountain ridges to protect their flocks, but Romanians also praise the bear as part of their winter traditions.

In some regions Romanians praise the bear during winter traditions.
In some regions Romanians praise the bear as part of their winter traditions. Photograph: David Hup
  • In some regions Romanians praise the bear as part of their winter tradition

Locals gather to watch scavenging bears
Locals gather to watch scavenging bears Photograph: David Hup
Locals gather to watch scavenging bears
Locals gather to watch scavenging bears Photograph: David Hup
  • Locals gather to watch scavenging bears

The natural carrying capacity for the bears is too low, so numerous villages and even larger towns in Transylvania such as Brasov, are raided by bears. It is believed there are around 6,000 bears roaming the Romanian forests. The struggle of living with bears eventually gained a priority on the governmental agenda, but the discussion about bear management is complex due to all the stakeholders involved.

A large female bear explores her natural habitat.
A large female bear explores her natural habitat. Photograph: David Hup
  • Above, a large female bear explores her natural habitat. Romania harbours one of Europe’s last remaining ancient forests. It is estimated that around 6,000 bears inhabit these forests

Libearty Bear Sanctuary Zarnesti
Libearty Bear Sanctuary Zarnesti Photograph: David Hup
  • Around 300 bears live at Libearty Bear Sanctuary in Zarnesti where the enclosures are made to recreate their natural forest habitat. Bears are usually solitary animals, but as long as the bears have enough food, they can live alongside each other

Libearty Bear Sanctuary Zarnesti
Libearty Bear Sanctuary Zarnesti Photograph: David Hup
Portrait of a mother bear with her cub.
Portrait of a mother bear with her cub. Photograph: David Hup

Each year hunting associations give figures for the total number of bears in their area. From this, the government calculates an annual quota of bears to be shot, but the hunters benefit from claiming artificially high numbers, which lead to biased results. In September 2019, Romania’s senate passed a bill to remove the brown bear from the list of protected species and allow for seasonal hunting. Environmental organisations responded by arguing that there was neither trustworthy proof of the population size nor the effects of the new legislation. More recently, the Romanian ministry of environment has announced that there would be thorough research to ascertain the actual situation.

Several towns in Transylvania, Romania, worship bears with a traditional dance
Several towns in Transylvania, Romania, worship bears with a traditional dance Photograph: David Hup
Several towns in Transylvania, Romania, worship bears with a traditional dance
Several towns in Transylvania, Romania, worship bears with a traditional dance Photograph: David Hup
Several towns in Transylvania, Romania worship bears with the traditional dance
A group of bear dancers on stage during their show in Comanesti, Bacau county. Photograph: David Hup
  • Several towns in Transylvania, Romania, worship bears with a traditional dance to fertilise and purify the soil, chase away evil spirits and to welcome the new year. The relationship between Romanians and these large carnivores has a rich history and this tradition is unique to the country

Several towns in Transylvania, Romania, worship bears with a traditional dance
Several towns in Transylvania, Romania, worship bears with a traditional dance Photograph: David Hup

Meanwhile, in several towns in Transylvania bears are worshipped every winter by the traditional dance Ursul. A dance to fertilise and purify the soil, chase away evil spirits and to welcome in the new year. Besides worshipping, people have also created ways to make money from bears with expeditions and ecotourism.

While all of this seems encouraging, both for the bear population and locals, bears are still raiding bins, breaking through fences and destroying crops. These “trouble bears” are often moved to sanctuaries, but the capacities of these facilities are increasingly strained because of the species’ continued habitat loss.

Bears emerge at night on the quiet streets of a town in Transylvania
Bear in the backyard Photograph: David Hup

While this is happening in the villages, higher up in the mountains, shepherds go to sleep every night covered in a thick blanket of mist, guarded by a pack of special bred livestock guardian dogs, not knowing what the night might bring.

• This article was amended on 2 August 2022 to remove text that was inconsistent with editorial guidelines.

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