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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
Josh Barrie

64 Old Compton Street: Nima Safei to open sibling to 40 Dean Street

The team behind 40 Dean Street has announced a new sister restaurant, 64 Old Compton Street, billed as a “traditional Italian, affordably priced.”

Like the original, the new spot will serve classic Italian food, and will do so with a “similar vibe,” the Standard was told.

A two minute walk from 40 Dean Street, a Soho favourite for 20 years — and with a cocktail on the menu named for the Standard’s David Ellis — owner Nima Safei said his latest restaurant would be a “cosy spot.”

He said that guests will be greeted with a bold red design, and a gold-and-black graphic logo reminiscent of legendary New York nightclub Studio 54.

“It hints at mischief to be made within: the dark blue-painted, antique-strewn dining room, half hidden from view by a café curtain, is intimate and louche, like Soho itself,” said the restaurateur.

His first venue, 40 Dean Street, is known as something of a “Soho secret”, being publicity shy but attracting a starry crowd. Among the guests known to dine at 40 are actor Rupert Everett, Princess Beatrice, and Fawn James, the director of Soho Estates. Brad Pitt once ordered takeaway from the restaurant, despite it not usually offering the service. Owner Safei, celebrated for his exuberance and charm, is a regular fixture across W1.

He said the time is right to open a new restaurant: “Since 2009, the wonderful people of Soho have taken 40 Dean Street to their hearts and many treat it like an extension of their home, office or hotel,” said Safei.

“But we were having to turn too many people away, so opening 64 Old Compton Street literally round the corner felt like the perfect solution.

“Despite their close proximity, they’re very much their own restaurants with their own personalities – 40 is the older gay brother who’s been around for a while and knows where the party’s at, while 64 is the cool lesbian sister who’s new on the scene but intends to make her presence felt. I hope people will love them equally!”

The 64 Old Compton Street menu has been divided into three sections: cold, fritti and baked; pizzas and salads; and pasta, risotto and oven. On the way are dishes such as baked portobello mushrooms with sun-fried tomatoes, white pizza of mushroom and truffle, tiger prawn linguine, and chicken Milanese with spaghetti.

The site had previously been Leggero, also homely Italian, but most recently was a branch of Clean Kitchen Club, which shut in February after just 18 months trading. The closure was another indication that vegan-only restaurants are falling out of fashion, and followed the decision by Pret to call time on all but two branches of Veggie Pret in December of last year.

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