Everything about Marc Jacobs’ Autumn/Winter ‘24 catwalk show was beautifully offbeat, not least the timing. Taking place on 1st July, it was out of the usual fashion programming – belated, in fact. It turns out, the saying is right; good things do come to those who wait.
The show was larger than life – literally so. As with the American designer’s Spring/Summer ‘24 collection, garments had extremely exaggerated proportions, creating a paper-doll-like effect.
The idea of metamorphosis was reflected in the show notes, which read, ‘We use fashion to embrace bold and courageous self-expression [...] allowing us to freely explore and display our thoughts, desires, and identities in a deeper pursuit of joy, beauty and personal transformation.’
In a nutshell, Jacobs’ maxim is ‘Joy, period.’ Want to know how he achieved that? This is your guide to a very memorable show, in five key takeaways.
1. There was a modern Marilyn Monroe moment
The first look from the show was a white, halterneck dress – a cartoonish reimagining of the William Travilla dress Monroe wore in The Seven Year Itch. No gust of wind needed; the skirt is structured so it is permanently in mid-air.
2. Minnie Mouse is muse
The famous mouse's polka dots were supersized and splashed upon an A-line skirt, while her long-lashed peepers were a recurring feature in the show.
3. The Breton tee got an upgrade
We want ours oversized with dramatic structure and a '60s-tinged boatneck. Hello, sailor.
4. There is a new bag to covet
The top-handled, chain-adorned messenger came in various guises – milky suede, cerise-pink, and in quilted form, perhaps a reference to Jacobs' iconic Stam bag. A future classic designer handbag.
5. Marc knows how to draw a crowd
...and not just any crowd. The front row was filled with icons, including Debbie Harry, Chloe Sevigny, Hari Nef, Winnie Harlow, Anna Sui and Sofia Coppola.