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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Josh Barrie

27 Old Compton Street: Italian-style cafeteria to bring £10 pasta to Soho

Hot table: quick pasta dishes are on the way - (27 Old Compton Street)

A new Soho restaurant serving bowls of fresh pasta from £10 will open in March.

The restaurateur Nima Safaei, who owns casual joints 40 Dean Street and 64 Old Compton Street, will add to his group with the even more accessible 27 Old Compton Street.

Inspired by Italy’s tavola calda, or cafeterias, the third restaurant will be a place for quick, affordable plates of pasta, with prices between £10 and £15.

Safaei said the idea is to create somewhere for a “quick Italian lunch” in Soho, or a “post-disco bite” for the late crowd.

On the menu will be dishes such as rigatoni amatriciana, pumpkin and ricotta ravioli, gnocchi with cavolo nero, paccheri puttanesca with tiger prawns, and risotto verde.

All are designed to be enjoyed on high tables with a glass or two of wine, Safaei said, bringing a dose of Italian eating culture to London.

“The concept of ‘tavola calda’ instantly resonated with me — I wanted to create that spot for fast, high-quality food that doesn’t compromise on taste or flavour,” he said.

“27 Old Compton Street will be a place where people can drop in effortlessly, knowing they’ll get incredible pasta, fab drinks and a buzzing atmosphere.”

Safaei’s other two restaurants are also inspired by Italy but are closer in form to trattorias in menu and price point.

“It’s a totally different space to my other two sites, but one that still feels undeniably Soho,” he added.

The wine list will feature options by the glass, starting from about £7. There will also be cocktails, from an Italian take on a Bloody Mary to a citrus-focused martini.

The restaurant will seat 30 and won’t take reservations, much the same as a canteen on the continent.

27 Old Compton Street, W1D 5JP, @27oldcomptonstreet

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