Sprinkled across the Bay of Bengal, about 620 miles from the mainland, the Andaman and neighbouring Nicobar Islands are actually the peaks of a submerged mountain range which runs from Myanmar to Indonesia.
Foreign visitors require a permit and are not allowed at all on the Nicobar Islands. Many parts of the Andamans too, are off limits to preserve their rare bio-diversity and protect the six indigenous tribes that still live there, some of whom are fiercely hostile to visitors. They are mostly hunter gatherers, wearing only tree bark or leaves.
The islands are fascinating in feel, far more akin to parts of Indonesia or Myanmar than of India. Slowly opening up, these islands are the answer for the ultimate beach trip at the end of an Indian holiday.
Here's what to do when you're there...
To Stay: the first five star resort has just opened on lush Havelock Island, putting this archipelago of 572 islands firmly on the luxe traveller’s map. Taj Exotica comprises 72 sleek villas dotted between banana plantations and embraced by coconut groves, mango and jackfruit trees; a spa, a 50 metre infinity pool and three seriously good restaurants.
To Eat: astonishingly fertile, the islands encompass three distinct ecosystems – tropical forests, mangroves and coral reefs supporting an incredible abundance of plant and marine life. Some of the largest crabs in the world like the rare Giant Robber Crab are found here and the lobster from Diglipur, which could be considered a work of art, so beautifully marked is its shell, puts all other lobsters to shame with its sweet succulence. Then there is the fruit, the lemongrass, the coconut and the variety of dishes which comes from the wide range of settlers who have made this their home.
To explore the marine life: coral reefs are still colourful and prolific despite some damage from climate change, with 89 per cent of India’s coral diversity found in this archipelago. Look for Staghorn coral, sea fans and plate coral. Fish are in abundance, from bump head parrot fish, to fusiliers to lionfish, trigger fish and clown fish. There are four different types of turtles; green, Olive Ridley, leatherback and hawksbill.
To beach bask: Radhanagar Beach, on Havelock Island, is considered one of the best beaches in Asia. A crescent-shaped lick of sand that goes as far as the eye can see, tightly bordered by jungle; but there are other beaches too such as Vijaynagar Beach or Kala Pathar Beach. Near the capital, Port Blair is Corbyn’s Cove, which is good for water sports and scuba diving.
To fish: if you are brave enough follow the locals and go spear-fishing. If not hop aboard one of the many boats and go out on the waters to line catch grouper.
To travel back in time: it is still impossible to visit the Nicobar Islands, but both living there and in parts of the Andaman Islands are six indigenous tribes. Tightly monitored to prevent risk to them from disease, you can nonetheless travel through reserves like the Jarawa reserve, on the South Andaman and Middle Andaman islands near capital Port Blair, or whilst on many of the islands, talk to members of the Nicobarese tribe, the largest of the six, numbering some 30,000. These are the first people to willingly begin to integrate with the local settlers.
To star gaze: head to secluded Neil Island, 40 kilometres north-east of Port Blair, to see the waters transform into a shimmering sea of stars on a clear night.
To nature trail: a guided walk through the interior of any of the jungle-clad islands may reveal skink and emerald doves, white-bellied eagles and Andaman nightjars, Andaman’s krait snake and kingfishers in multi-coloured hues. Walk the beach in the early morning light and see hermit crabs and ghost crabs, the latter of which make a tapestry of dots on the sand, reminiscent of Australian aboriginal paintings.
To pay homage to the Indian freedom fighters: on the South Andaman Island, in Port Blair, capital of the archipelago, the Cellular Jail stands as a memorial to the political prisoners incarcerated there. The area was originally a penal colony, started whilst under British occupation, after the failure of the Indian Mutiny of 1857 but by 1896 the construction of the Cellular Jail began. Designed specifically for solitary confinement, it became a symbol of colonial oppression and today, as a museum, catalogues in detail the atrocities of life there.
To culture vulture: only accessible by domestic flight from India, take the opportunity to visit the archaeological wonders of Tamil Nadu before flying out of Chennai on the two hour flight to Port Blair. The 7th century rock-cut shrines of Mamallapuram or the small temple town of Kanchipuram, also famous for its silk, are easily accessible day trips out of the vibrant waterfront town of Chennai.
Cox & Kings (0203 642 0861, CoxandKings.co.uk) offers a five-night tour to Chennai and the Andaman Islands from £2,095 per person, including international and domestic flights, return ferry crossing, private transfers and two nights’ B&B at Vivanta by Taj - Fisherman’s Cove, Chennai and three nights B&B at the Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, the Andaman Islands.
