Rubies and sapphires of exceptional provenance and signed jewels were among the top lots at Bonhams New York Fine Jewelry sale on Tuesday. This is to be expected at a Bonhams sale, as the auction house specializes in colored gems and signed jewels. However, it was a colorless diamond that turned out to be the top lot of the auction. Specifically, a platinum ring centered with a 10-carat round brilliant-cut diamond accented by diamond-set shoulders sold for $492,000.
The 133 lots achieved $4.5 million with 84% of the lots sold. For the remainder of the sale things went as planned with Burmese rubies and sapphires with Kashmir, Sri Lankan and Burmese origins achieving strong prices. There were two jewels featuring colored gems that attracted a great deal of interest.
The first was an Art Deco ruby and diamond bracelet by Cartier, circa 1935, which sold for $324,500, nearly tripling its high estimate of $120,000. It is composed of seven rows of Burmese ruby beads, interspersed by baguette-cut diamond bars and flanked by old European-cut diamonds.
The second was a sapphire and diamond pendant necklace that sold for $312,500, centered with a 40.07-carat cushion-shaped Ceylon (Sri Lankan) with no indications of heat or clarity enhancement.
Other important sales of note include:
* A sapphire and diamond ring that sold for $175,000, besting its $120,000 high estimate. The 9.85-carat emerald-cut Kashmir sapphire has no indication of heat or clarity enhancement.
* A ruby and diamond ring by Mermod & Jaccard that sold $131,250 against a high estimate of $120,000. The ring features a 3.24-carat antique cushion-shaped ruby and has been in the same family for four generations.
* A sapphire and diamond ring sold for $90,000, tripling its $30,000 high estimate. It features a 5.47-carat cushion-shaped Burmese sapphire with no indication of heat or clarity enhancement.
Signed jewels did well during the sale. Among the more extraordinary lots were:
* Natural pearl and diamond drop earrings by Harry Winston that sold for $275,000.
* An emerald and diamond ring weighing 25 carats and mounted by Verdura sold for $137,500, shattering its $30,000 high estimate.
* A diamond and sapphire bracelet by Bulgari centrally set with a line of oval-shaped sapphires of Burmese (Myanmar) origin, framed by a cluster of marquise and round brilliant-cut diamonds, sold for $58,750.
Included among the signed jewels, were 16 pieces by American designer David Webb. Most of the items were purchased directly from David Webb and were collected over a period of 20 years. Top performing lots were:
* A diamond, emerald, ruby and enamel Double Fox Head Bangle bracelet that sold for $43,750 against its $30,000 high estimate.
* A coral, diamond, sapphire, emerald, platinum bangle bracelet that sold for $51,200 against its $35,000 high estimate.
* An amethyst, coral, emerald, rock crystal quartz, diamond and enamel pendant necklace that sold for $62,500 against its $50,000 high estimate.
Fancy colored diamonds exceeded expectations at the sale. Among the top lots were:
* A 2.98-carat a marquise-shaped brilliant-cut very light blue fancy diamond on a ring that sold for $162,500, smashing its $30,000 high estimate.
* A 10-carat emerald-cut fancy yellow diamond on a diamond ring that sold for $181,250, eclipsing its $50,000 high estimate.
