Pop a cork: it needn’t be Champagne this year
(Picture: Pixabay)Come Christmastime, come the popping of Champagne corks — well, perhaps, in usual times.
But usual times these are not: with inflation running riot and the cost of living climbing swiftly up and up, saving here and there becomes the norm, even at Christmas. With that to mind, luxuries begin to be set aside and, if not exactly frivilous, bottles of Champagne begin to look ever more unaffordable. But sometimes, it’s just about wanting a break from the norm, changing things up.
As such — and reaped from vines sown in the shin of Italy, the red soils of Australia, via the classical regions of France, the banks of the River Test in Hampshire and the Moselle in Luxembourg — below are 10 terrific value sparkling wines. These promise a level of pleasure and intrigue beyond their equitable price points. In fact, if you bought every bottle, you could still have change compared to the cost of just one of a certain famous gold sheet wrapped prestige cuvée… Chin chin, and Merry Christmas.
White
Pasqua Romeo & Juliet Prosecco DOC
Beyond a label capturing messages of love inscribed on the walls of Juliet’s House, Verona comes a mellow, pear-scented Prosecco. It is produced by the cutting-edge Pasqua family winery whose motto is “house of the unconventional”. While its little bubbles flutter in a neat serve, it also contributes to a delicious Bellini when gently stirred with peach purée.
£8.99, mix any six, Majestic
Cave de Lugny Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blancs
With apple pie scents then a citrussy palate, this pure Chardonnay is made by Burgundy’s second oldest winemaking cooperative which is fast approaching its centenary. An agreeable sparkler on the lighter side, it also makes for a swish Kir Royale when you add a dab of crème de cassis.
£10, Waitrose
Feudi Di San Gregorio DUBL Falanghina Brut Spumante
DUBL is the lovechild of an Italian winery in undulating Avellino and their French significant other, Anselme Selosse Champagne whose top bottles sell for £2,000 a pop. Planted in soils deduced to be similar to the landscape of Champagne, the local Falanghina grape yields ebullient notes of toast and nougat along with an enticing whiff of just-struck match. Perfect with lighter pastries.
£17.44, Strictly Wine
Leckford Estate Brut 2018
In May 2009, Waitrose became the first British retailer to plant a vineyard, sown at their farm in Hampshire. From Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier planted in chalk and clay aside of the River Test, this brims with flavours of crushed Hovis biscuits, crunchy hazelnuts and even bergamot.
£23.99, Waitrose
Dominio de la Vega, Reserva Especial Cava Brut, Utiel-Requena 2017
An especially opulent Cava from Valencia collages classic grape, Macabeo with the interloper, Chardonnay to positive effect. Look for flavours of ripe apricot and orange peel. Having been aged on its enhancing lees for two years, it feels weighty enough to say sí with jamón.
£24.95, Jeroboams
Lumière Koshu Sparkling
The most expensive wine of the selection is a curiosity worth every penny. This moderately alcoholic (10.5%) sparkler is made from the pink-skinned Koshu grape, native to Japan, at a state of the art winery with roots reaching back five generations. With a tender, even shy profile, expect hints of chamomile, acacia and lychee. Try it with succulent sashimi.
£37, Amathus
Pink
ALDI Specially Selected Crémant de Bordeaux
Like sparkling Burgundy whose still wines are coveted by collectors, Bordeaux is not the automatic go-to for effervescence. However, here is a sunset-hued, mint-scented Merlot with vigour, encapsulated in a bowling pin-like bottle. Quenching alongside well-spiced dishes.
£9.49, Aldi
Bernard-Massard Cuvée de L’Écusson Rosé Brut
Sandwiched between key producers, France and Germany, Luxembourg isn’t internationally renowned for wine, though its 450 wine growers actually produce 16 million bottles yearly. This pure Pinot Noir comes from a winery built a century ago on the banks of the Moselle. In this subtle pour, look for inferences of raspberry and pink grapefruit. Its citrus notes work well with fish and chips.
£18.50, Amathus
Cloudy Bay Pelorus Rosé
Taking the name of the dolphin “Pelorus Jack”, who apparently guided ships through the sometimes-perilous waters of Cook Strait, 1888-1912, this well-crafted, Champagne-like Pinot Noir-led fizz is brought to you by Cloudy Bay, who first achieved fame with their charismatic still Sauvignon Blanc.
£28, Sainsbury’s
Red
Penley Estate Georgina 2021 Australian Sparkling Red
From Coonawarra winery, Penley Estate, this oak-aged sparkling Shiraz is bold, brimming with kirsch, plum and raspberry jam notes. At once astonishing, confusing and delectable, and lovely with summer pudding.
